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This route lies between the popular lines Fountain of Youth and Lightning Bolt Aret. While there are a few VERY good sections on this route, the route is otherwise unremarkable, and so it merits 2 stars for this venue, by merits of being "in a small pond" it would probably merit only one star in a larger venue.
Start up the crack system that is the same for both 'The Knack' and 'Fountain Of Youth.' this 5.8- crack reaches a sloping ledge system maybe 5 meters up. From there, work out and right across a moderate but runout face to reach an inset flake that caps a 1-meter roof. Tackle the roof on good holds and jams with good gear overhead, this is probably 8+. Continue up past the roof into a clean perfect dark corner with an RP crack. The last 7 meters of climbing is as good clean and solid as it could get, but all to short. Protect with RPs or similar and top out on great 5.9+ moves, stemming and edging. A tentative leader at this grade might find it difficult to protect solidly at the crux. (think of the Over The Hill dihedral, but with no pins at all)
Up top, place a large nut and traverse to belay to the North, on the bolted anchors for 'Fountain Of Youth.' Rap on a 60m rope, watching the ends.
A set of stoppers and a set of cams + 1 set RPs or similar small pro.
BETA PHOTO: Haywire and Lightning Bolt Arete.
Underclinging the roof. Photo by Ken Parker.
Pure stemming, much to my dismay. Photo by Lenny M...
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 7, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13
I thought this was very hard for 9+, more like somewhere in difficulty between Over the Hill and the dihedral on Aerial Book. In fact, I hung more on this than when leading Aerial Book! Perhaps that was because I was thinking 5.9 and then got demoralized. Place a couple of small cams in the upper corner to prevent your wires from lifting up as the corner steepens and leans right. The bottom roof was a little spooky, due to the crusty rock and not being able to see where you were going.
We belayed at the very top of the corner by running the rope way back to a good tree. You can place a #3 Camalot at the top of the corner to keep the belayer from tumbling southwards. We then downclimbed with a belay to the south to the anchors for Lightning Bolt ArÍte and Iron Cross.