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East Wall
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Haystack T 
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Unnamed T,S 

Haystack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ken Edsburg, TM Herbert, Jerry Sublette, 1965
Page Views: 8,820
Submitted By: Salamanizer on Mar 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (209)
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It's a bird, it's a plane, it's...............a Fo...

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Description 

The crux is getting on the route in the summer. There's always a line so come early....real early. This route is a good entry level 5.8. Most of the pitches check in around 5.5 - 5.6. Midway up the second pitch is where you'll find the crux bulge. Its well protectable and only one short 5.8 move over it. The route is also really easy to follow. This is the best route to score booty gear on after a summer rain storm or early on Sunday mornings:)

Location 

Right off the approach trail to East Wall, on your right. No fixed protection at belays. Walk down the obvious decent trail to get down.

Protection 

Cams, .5" - 2" Nuts, 1 set.


Photos of Haystack Slideshow Add Photo
Route tracing: showing p2 roof crux.
BETA PHOTO: Route tracing: showing p2 roof crux.
Arin towards the top of Haystack.
Arin towards the top of Haystack.
Working out the roof move.
BETA PHOTO: Working out the roof move.
Having Fun on Haystack
Having Fun on Haystack
A good belay stance 20 meters above the roof pull.  From here, one long final pitch remains.
BETA PHOTO: A good belay stance 20 meters above the roof pull....
swinging leads after the roof
swinging leads after the roof
2nd belay
2nd belay
Starting up the first pitch.
Starting up the first pitch.
unknown climber making the crux move past the roof on pitch 2 of the haystack crack
BETA PHOTO: unknown climber making the crux move past the roof...
Emily pulling the roof crux on Haystack
Emily pulling the roof crux on Haystack

Comments on Haystack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 7, 2014
By 426
Mar 8, 2007

I always found the moves about 40' below the roof to feel "cruxy". Even saw someone whip there...

These moves are right off the first belay ledge; do not hesitate to protect well right there...
By GMBurns
Jul 21, 2008

I loved this route from bottom to top. The first pitch offers fun climbing either in the corner on the left or the face to the right. Naturally, the second pitch roof is of Gunks quality, and is the crux. Even the third pitch offers some exciting moves. A must do if you're heading to the Leap.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 8, 2010

Make sure to place a passive piece at the lip of the roof or a small cam in a horizontal out right above the roof to keep your rope from jamming in the crack at the lip.

Also if your second is likely to fall or have trouble clearing the lip, belay just above. Beware the sharp dike that forms the lip of the roof, core shot/cut rope potential.
By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

Good, but I wouldn't call it classic.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Aug 24, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I'd have to respectfully disagree with Blitzo on this one. I think Haystack is one of the better routes at the Leap. Definitely better than the overly hyped Corrugation Corner. In fact, I like it better than Bear's Reach as well (too much suspect rock on BR). To each his own though.
By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great route, definitely only 3 pitches. The roof is simply classic and protects very well.
By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
Jun 20, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a good climb, done it several times, 3.5 stars with Prep H as the first pitch, 3 stars otherwise. There are two 5.8 moves on pitch two, the bulge 20ish' off the belay (I've had a partner whip on this section) and the roof. Good lead as you are working through the grades, and good repeat even years later.
By SuperDave
Sep 9, 2012

A 0.5 (purple) C4 Camalot protects the roof well, placed about 1 foot in from the bucket, under the roof.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Sep 14, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Exciting position on the crux move round the roof probably makes it seem harder than it actually is. UK grade VS+ 4c.
By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I honestly liked East crack more. That's all I remember.
By Christian C
From: Arcata, CA
Jun 7, 2014

preparation h is a much better first pitch to this stellar route!