Haystack 5.8
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Ken Edsburg, TM Herbert, Jerry Sublette, 1965 |
| Submitted By: | Salamanizer on Mar 29, 2006 |
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Starting up the first pitch.
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311.
Here's a map:
| 2009 Closure Map
Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
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This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description The crux is getting on the route in the summer. There's always a line so come early....real early. This route is a good entry level 5.8. Most of the pitches check in around 5.5 - 5.6. Midway up the second pitch is where you'll find the crux bulge. Its well protectable and only one short 5.8 move over it. The route is also really easy to follow. This is the best route to score booty gear on after a summer rain storm or early on Sunday mornings:)
Location Right off the approach trail to East Wall, on your right. No fixed protection at belays. Walk down the obvious decent trail to get down.
Protection Cams, .5" - 2" Nuts, 1 set.
BETA PHOTO: Route tracing: showing p2 roof crux.
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BETA PHOTO: unknown climber making the crux move past the roof...
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BETA PHOTO: Working out the roof move.
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It's a bird, it's a plane, it's...............a Fo...
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Arin towards the top of Haystack.
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By 426
Mar 8, 2007
| I always found the moves about 40' below the roof to feel "cruxy". Even saw someone whip there...
These moves are right off the first belay ledge; do not hesitate to protect well right there... |
By GMBurns
Jul 21, 2008
| I loved this route from bottom to top. The first pitch offers fun climbing either in the corner on the left or the face to the right. Naturally, the second pitch roof is of Gunks quality, and is the crux. Even the third pitch offers some exciting moves. A must do if you're heading to the Leap. |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 8, 2010
| Make sure to place a passive piece at the lip of the roof or a small cam in a horizontal out right above the roof to keep your rope from jamming in the crack at the lip.
Also if your second is likely to fall or have trouble clearing the lip, belay just above. Beware the sharp dike that forms the lip of the roof, core shot/cut rope potential. |
By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010
| Good, but I wouldn't call it classic. |
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Aug 24, 2010
rating: 5.8
| I'd have to respectfully disagree with Blitzo on this one. I think Haystack is one of the better routes at the Leap. Definitely better than the overly hyped Corrugation Corner. In fact, I like it better than Bear's Reach as well (too much suspect rock on BR). To each his own though. |
By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.8
| Great route, definitely only 3 pitches. The roof is simply classic and protects very well. |
By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
Jun 20, 2012
rating: 5.8
| This is a good climb, done it several times, 3.5 stars with Prep H as the first pitch, 3 stars otherwise. There are two 5.8 moves on pitch two, the bulge 20ish' off the belay (I've had a partner whip on this section) and the roof. Good lead as you are working through the grades, and good repeat even years later. |
By SuperDave
Sep 9, 2012
| A 0.5 (purple) C4 Camalot protects the roof well, placed about 1 foot in from the bucket, under the roof. |
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Sep 14, 2012
rating: 5.8+
| Exciting position on the crux move round the roof probably makes it seem harder than it actually is. UK grade VS+ 4c. |
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