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Hayden Peak

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Aces High Tower 
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Iron Hayden Wall 
Most Excellent Crag, The 

Hayden Peak  


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Elevation: 12,479'
Location: 40.7333, -110.8496 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 19,803
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Craig Martin on Aug 28, 2010
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Hayden Peak is located on the Mirror Lake Highway. It is the unmistakeable peak that dominates the view to the East from Bald Mountain Pass. No hiking trail exists according to the Forest Service. The South Ridge seems to be the most used route to the summit and may be the Uintas best day hike. Expect lots of 4th class scrambling, some of it may be exposed depending on the route taken.

Getting There 

Park at the Highline Trailhead in the Hikers parking lot. Locate a climbers trail to the northeast of the bathrooms. There is a tall twin tree stump that is visible from the parking lot looking to the east. This is your trail marker. Follow this trail through the forest alternating between traversing to the north and climbing up to the east. At treeline head up a shallow gully that is often snow covered until mid-summer. When the gully steepens, look for cairns and a trail heading north and switchbacking a few times before continueing its northward traverse. Cross a wide couloir and follow a rough trail up its left side, at the top head north across a short boulder field and onto a ledge system that traverses the west face. Make your way up to the cliffs. 1 hour approach.

Climbing 

In my opinion Hayden Peak is home to some of the best multi-pitch climbing in the Uintas. There is a lot of adventure to be had in a very nice setting. This is a summertime crag to be sure. Climbing on the multi-pitch routes in anything but the nicest weather can be a chilly experience for the unprepared.

A few notes on Hayden Peak climbing.

  • Bring a rack. There are not many pure sport climbs. Even routes that appear fully bolted may require some gear. A good rack for most routes would be a purple TCU to a #3 camalot and small to medium nuts. A few more gear intensive routes exist and a double rack to a #2camalot plus a #4camalot would be more appropriate.

  • Most routes are adequately bolted and/or protected for the leader comfortable at the respective grade.

  • Generally speaking, the climbing difficulty tops out at 5.11+, with many routes in the 5.10 range.

  • 1 60m rope should suffice for most routes. But be careful and pay attention because many routes where put up using a 70m rope and a few 2 rope rappels do exist.








Climbing Season



Weather station 15.2 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',5],['5.10',3],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hayden Peak:
Ruby   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'   Aces High Tower
The Title Track aka Eddies High Somewhere   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 270'   Eddie's High Somewhere
Where Vultures Dare   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400'   Iron Hayden Wall
Aces High   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800'   Aces High Tower
Beer Mule   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'   Iron Hayden Wall
King of Twilight   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'   Iron Hayden Wall
The Evil That Men Do   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 85'   Iron Hayden Wall
Run To The Hills   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 350'   Iron Hayden Wall
Sun & Steel   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'   Iron Hayden Wall
Browse More Classics in Hayden Peak

Featured Route For Hayden Peak
Run to the Hills <br />Pitch 1

Run To The Hills 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  UT : Uinta Mountains : ... : Iron Hayden Wall
A great one pitch cragging or 3 pitch adventure route.Pitch 1: (5.10a, 90') Pull the low crux at bolt 1 and follow great edges to a 2 bolt anchor. Gear is required in the horizontals between the bolts and at the top.Pitch 2: Steep start to the climbers’ right of the belay using cryptic moves (5.10) past 3 bolts leads to a ledge with a large block on its left side. Continue up and slightly right utilizing some gear placements and heading for the bolts. Climb up the very cool, steep face using l...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Hayden Peak Slideshow Add Photo
2nd pitch.
2nd pitch.
Wyld Stallyns 5.10. The Most Excellent Crag. Hayden Peak. Nice storm clouds! Got rained out big time shortly after this photo was taken. <br /> <br />
Wyld Stallyns 5.10. The Most Excellent Crag. Hayde...
Umbrella retrieval mission at the Moosehorn. Hayden peak looking snowy in the background.
Umbrella retrieval mission at the Moosehorn. Hayde...
3rd pitch of Up the Irons 5.11, 4 pitches. Iron Hayden Wall, Hayden Peak.
3rd pitch of Up the Irons 5.11, 4 pitches. Iron Ha...
Photo by Tyler Phillips <br /> <br />
Photo by Tyler Phillips

1st pitch of Sun & Steel.
1st pitch of Sun & Steel.
Another shot of storm clouds and climbers.
Another shot of storm clouds and climbers.
Climbers on the Iron Hayden Wall, Hayden Peak.
Climbers on the Iron Hayden Wall, Hayden Peak.
Early spring view of Hayden Peak.
Early spring view of Hayden Peak.
2nd pitch of Future Artifacts 5.10a, 2 pitches. Eddies High, Hayden Peak.
2nd pitch of Future Artifacts 5.10a, 2 pitches. Ed...
Jersey on Run to the Hills.
Jersey on Run to the Hills.
Location of the Estwing and the Iron Hayden.
BETA PHOTO: Location of the Estwing and the Iron Hayden.
Run to the Hills.......or in this case maybe start running from the hills?
Run to the Hills.......or in this case maybe start...
The Stairway to Hayden. This is also the general approach to the climbing on Hayden Peak. <br />
BETA PHOTO: The Stairway to Hayden. This is also the general a...

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