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 ADVANCED
Dogwood Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Modest Man from Mandrake S 
Ain't no Party, Ain't no Disco T 
Cross-Eyed and Painless S 
Drunken Crack T,TR 
Haven't A Clue S,TR 
Hyper-Gamma Spaces T,TR 
I Think I'm Going Bald S,TR 
Life During Wartime T,TR 
Lion of Zion, The T 
Little Creatures T 
Little Critters T 
Little Things S 
On the Skids S 
Quartzite and (No) Stainless T 
Take Me To The River S,TR 
Unforgiven S,TR 
Unknown west of Mandrake S,TR 
Unknown west of Take Me to the River T,TR 

Haven't A Clue 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Shane Willet, Mike Carnahan 1991
Page Views: 1,907
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 17, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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BETA PHOTO: View from start of Haven't a Clue

Description 

This climbs the right line up the small roof on the right side of Dogwood. It is a smooth smeary type climb with a crux at the roof. Well protected.


Protection 

2 bolt Anchor and 6 draws for the route.



Photos of Haven't A Clue Slideshow Add Photo
Mars on the headwall above the roof.
Mars on the headwall above the roof.
Ben suspended above the river on Haven't a Clue.
Ben suspended above the river on Haven't a Clue.
Comments on Haven't A Clue Add Comment
Show which comments
By Isaac T.
From: Rockville, MD
Feb 28, 2008

There is a photo of this route in the Patagonia '08 catalog, do you have to start from a boat to do this climb? Or is it only when the water is high?

By Brian in SLC
Mar 1, 2008

Dogwood never looked so cool! Nice shot of Anita Brueski.
Water is either too high (and a boat would be crazy) or low enough that a boat isn't required (after spring runoff).

By Matthew Oliver
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 17, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I love to do this climb in early June. The water is so high that starting from the water is impossible. Rather I climb the first 20 ft of Take Me to the River, just past the washed part, and trav left to just below the roof. Beware of traffic though, people are not to keen on you using the first bolt of Take Me to the River well the rest is empty, and I have had some one climb it well I was still clipped into the first bolt. Let me just say I was pretty pissed when I got down...

By Matheson Harris
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Lead "going bald" first, pulled the rope and lead this second. I felt this was nearly as challenging a lead as the upper portion is a little polished and there are a few spots with 2 finger crimpers and small foot edges. The first bolt is shared with "going bald, but this creates a big zig zag in your rope. After clipping the second bolt, I slid over and removed the first draw so my belayer was directly below me and not standing next to the water.

By marsh
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Bring a big tarp and you can get a good stance about 5 feet to right of directly below the first bolt. Place the tarp in the shallow section of creek between a few rocks and there are some nicely shaped rocks to stand on. Also helpful to have a spotter for the first clip and your longest runner.