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Have you seen or used shifty gear?!?!?!
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By jbird
Aug 5, 2012

OK, so I use my rack about five times a week and I pamper my gear. I figure why not? The stakes are high for both my partner and I, so I clean, oil, and fondle my rack often. . (yea I know how that sounds but its true, my cams are super smooth!!). So I'm wondering how many other people do this?? And I also want to see the jankiest gear people use, or stories related to questionable gear. What have you seen?

I want the stories that put hair on your chest and the whiskey go down easy. Or the stories that put the boys to shame and made the whiskey go down easy!




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By Zappatista
Aug 5, 2012
Book me, officer.

Come out to Vegas and hang with Scary Larry. That'll put hair on your chest.

I had a partner who was more of a sporto/boulderer but was into developing some new walls. He liked to rap with an autoblock, even though he never rapped first+always got the fireman's belay. After a particularly grueling all-day session, I noticed he had one of my pro slings from the rack rigged as an autoblock on a long, fully freehanging rappel (I had rapped first with the pig). When I asked what the deal was, why wasn't he using his autoblock cord for the backup, he said that he'd been using my slings as rappel backups for months as he kept forgetting his cord.

Replaced all my slings the next day. He's probably still doing this with his gear and then falling on semi-melted slings. Sweet.


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By Aric Datesman
Aug 5, 2012

A whole lot of ugly in this thread... www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/286252/Bolts-from-the-wayba>>>

As an example, a Dolt hanger with 1/4" bolt vs modern Metolius hanger and 3/8" bolt. Amazing what was considered "safe" back then...


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By Superclimber
Aug 5, 2012

All Killer No Filler wrote:
he said that he'd been using my slings as rappel backups for months as he kept forgetting his cord.

Ugh


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Aug 5, 2012
...

"so I clean, oil, and fondle my rack often"...



Sounds a wee bit ANAL if you ask me...(Or to put it another way, "n00bish")

I pretty much never clean my cams unless they get sticky as a MoFo and stop functioning all together...


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By Unassigned User
Aug 5, 2012

According to some my whole rack is shifty because I bought it used. I am noob but I don't clean oil or fondle my rack. I just use it.


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By Dave Bn
From Fort Collins, CO
Aug 5, 2012
Dreamweaver

Locker wrote:
"so I clean, oil, and fondle my rack often"... Sounds a wee bit ANAL if you ask me...(Or to put it another way, "n00bish")


Or, it sounds like someone who likes to take care of their gear.

But yeah, good point, I say neglect the items upon which our lives may one day depend...


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By Eric Coffman
Aug 5, 2012
mountainlion

I inspect each piece (trigger wires, slings, and squeeze it) as it goes on my harness. I have noticed a trigger wire hanging by mere threads after a long fall on it. If the cam lobes seem to be sticking I get out the Metolius cam lube from the pack and fix it right there. Just me but this is just part of my routine as I get my head together for what is sure to be another onsight or a repeat of a classic.


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By Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Aug 5, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey

After a trip I check my gear as it goes back in storage and oil as needed. Not a bad idea IMO. Go through lead rope if it's taken a fall to feel for core shots and have cut large lengths off because of that check


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By Aric Datesman
Aug 5, 2012

I'm surprised this thread hasn't yet had a comment about cleaning your nuts daily.


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By Julius Beres
From Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2012
Rewritten

Aric Datesman wrote:
I'm surprised this thread hasn't yet had a comment about cleaning your nuts daily.


You only clean your nuts after they are placed in a crack...


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By slim
Administrator
Aug 6, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

my friend dean's rack is always in bad shape. first pitch of a weekend at the creek and he had trigger wires break on 6 (!) of his cams. in one pitch. whenever we go out, i always call home rack advantage.


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Aug 6, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

All Killer No Filler wrote:
Come out to Vegas and hang with Scary Larry. That'll put hair on your chest.



+1 Where has he been? Haven't seen him around here in awhile.


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