Mountain Project: Climbing Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma

Haus is probably the most well known rock in Summit County. It is a locals' favorite and provides climbing anywhere from 5.7 to 5.14a. All routes at Haus Rock are bolted, and most climbs can even be set up on top rope.

Excerpted from a Pat Thompson comment: There is a guide book for this small area. High Country Crags by Scott Astaldi and Mike Gruber. It was printed in '93, so the newer routes are not in it.

Getting There

Keystone crags (also known as Montezuma) lie just a couple of miles East of Keystone (the town) on the South flank of Porcupine Peak. The most expedient approach is to drive to Dillon and take 6th avenue East to Keystone. After the last shops in town continue East - as though you were headed to A-Basin. A sharp right turn on to CO 5 will snake you beside the Keystone lodges. Stay on CO 5 for approximately 1.5 miles, and park in a dirt pullout on the left side of the road. Crags will have been visible from the moment you pass the lodges, and the creek will be nearby and on the right. The key is to find the pullout on the left as you head East. If you come to the FR260 fork, then you have gone too far. There will be a short embankment at the pullout and room for six or eight cars. Pick up a trail through the woods, on top of the embankment. This will take you up hill for 10 minutes or less to a short talus field and the trail will continue to the left where you will cross a small rock slide. Continue on the trail for another minute or so, and you will run right into the Rock.

The Classics

Comments on Haus Rock

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By Noah Gauss
Jul 13, 2002

Hey Pat. Hey Matt. For the record, Crystal Ball on Haus Rock is generaly considered about 12a or b. As Pat said, there is a guide on this "small" area. It is not really much of a destination just because of the size. The rock quality is decent though and it sits at about 10,000 ft. so it is cool. This is the Montezuma area described in High Country Crags. Mountain Outfitters in Breckenridge usually has a copy. This area is pretty hard to find, especially without the guide. Pat has put up a few routes since the guide was published, the best of which are the 8 and 9 on the back slabs of Haus.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 22, 2002

We climbed at Haus Rock on the w/e and were very impressed! It was hard to find and would be easier to find if you replace " You reach the rock by the right fork on the main trail" with "You reach the rock by the LEFT fork on the main trail" in the 2nd paragraph of Patrick Thompson's entry on 6/22/02. There is a small cairn - you head slightly up and across a small talus field . If you reach a boulder with 2 bolted lines on it you have missed the fork/cairn and gone too far up the main trail..

By Tyler Erickson
Jul 29, 2002

I found the directions to the main parking area a little obscure. This may help out... Exit US 6 as if you were to park in the dirt parking lots at River Run Village. Turn immediately left onto Gondola Road, which parallels US 6. This soon ends at Montezuma Road. Turn right onto Montezuma Road. Follow it up the canyon. After a long straightaway, the road turns right, then back left. The parking area is on the left hand side of the road, just before a sign that warns of a 20 mph left turn. From the exit off of US 6, the parking area is 1.5 miles.

By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 4, 2009

Anyone have descriptions for the routes on the southside (hard stuff)?
Any help would be great, thanks.

By Nick Przybysz
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 11, 2010

MrBurns the stuff on the back side ranges from 5.10 up to a 5.14 project. There is a 5.13 that starts underneath a little roof. I think there are 3 bolts up to a permanent draw, after that it is a little run out until the top. Crystal Ball is a popular one, 5.12b. Starts just left of the big boulder close to the rock. Has 5 bolts up to the anchor. On the far right side there is a 5.10bish route that works up the side just right of a nice crack (trad?)

By Evan Ratzan
From: Lafayette, CO
Jul 26, 2010

I found an iPod when I was climbing here about a week ago. Send me an email if you are missing one, with a list of some songs on it, the type and color, etc.

By Eric DeCaria
Oct 27, 2010

Ok, so just to set the record straight. Posted the "Abstract Plain", and it's not a project. Also, did the first ascents of the route you are calling "Torqued Blow" and another route that starts on the last project in the center of the wall and finishes on the "Crystal Ball".
Eric DeCaria

By waterguy
Jun 18, 2011

Found some climbing gear on June 14th. If you know of anyone who lost gear, get back to me to identify.

By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jul 2, 2012

Backside L->R
Top Soil, 5.10a, saport.
Side Plate, 5.10a, sport.
No Name, 5.10, sport.
Five Nine, 5.8, sport (I think it's here, might be left one).
Not Lichen This, 5.9+, sport.
Lichen This, 5.9, sport.
Unknown, 5.8, sport.
Hostile Krainzover, 5.10a, sport.
5.6 Crack, 5.6, trad.
Feet Do Not Fail Me Now, 5.8 sport, *Classic.
The Spine, 5.10+ sport, *Classic.
Flakin Out, 5.10a.
Dirty Love, 5.9.
They Call Me Shorty, 5.7.
Little Squirt, 5.6.

Around the corner L->R
Little Haus, 5.10c, sport.
Throwin' The Drool Again, 5.11, sport.
Dink, 5.11, sport.
Macho Picasso, 5.13c, sport.

The Steep Stuff L->R
Abstract Plain, 5.14.
Crystal Ball, 5.12b.
The Ol' Ball and Chain, 5.12d.
Sky Pilot, 5.12d.
Chainsaw, 5.12+.
Torqued Blow, 5.13a.

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Haus Rock

Description

Getting There

The Classics