Haus is probably the most well known rock in Summit County. It is a locals' favorite and provides climbing anywhere from 5.7 to 5.14a. All routes at Haus Rock are bolted, and most climbs can even be set up on top rope.
Excerpted from a Pat Thompson comment: there is a guidebook for this small area. High Country Crags by Scott Astaldi and Mike Gruber. It was printed in '93, so the newer routes are not in it.
Backside (North side) L->R:
A. Top Soil, 10-, 1p, bolts.
B. Side Plate, 10-, 1p, 30', bolts.
C. No Name, 10, 1p, bolts.
D. Five Nine, 8, 1p, bolts or TR.
E. Not Lichen This, 9+, 1p, bolts.
F. Lichen This, 9, 1p, bolts.
G. Not So Hostile Krainzover, 8, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Hostile Krainzover, 10-, 1p, bolts.
I. 5.6 Crack, 6, 1p, gear.
J. Feet Do Not Fail Me Now, 8, 1p, 45', bolts or TR.
K. The Spine, 10+, 1p, bolts.
L. Flakin' Out, 10-, 1p, bolts.
M. Dirty Love, 9, 1p, bolts.
N. They Call Me Shorty, 7, 1p, 45', bolts.
O. Little Squirt, 6,1p, 35', bolts.
Around the corner (West side) L->R:
A. Little Haus, 10, 1p, bolts.
B. Throwin' The Drool Again, 11-, 1p, bolts.
C. Half and Half, 8, 1p, bolts & gear.
D. Dink, 11- PG-13, 1p, 30', bolts.
E. Macho Picasso, 13, 1p, 35', bolts.
The Steep Stuff (South side) L->R:
A1. Abstract Plain, 14, 1p, bolts.
A1B1. Crystal Ball, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
B1. Crystal Ball Direct, 12, bolts.
B2B1. Crystal Ball Variation / Sky Pilot, 12+, 1p, bolts.
B1G. The Ol' Ball and Chain, 12+, 1p, 70', bolts.
C. Burning Down the Haus, 13, 1p, 45', bolts.
D. 5.10 Crack, 10, 1p, gear.
E. Torqued Blow, 13-, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Sky Pilot, 12+, 1p, 45', bolts.
G. Chainsaw, 12+, 1p, 45', bolts.
Keystone crags (also known as Montezuma) lie just a couple of miles East of Keystone (the town) on the South flank of Porcupine Peak. The most expedient approach is to drive to Dillon and take 6th avenue East to Keystone. After the last shops in town continue East - as though you were headed to A-Basin. A sharp right turn on to CO 5 will snake you beside the Keystone lodges. Stay on CO 5 for approximately 1.5 miles, and park in a dirt pullout on the left side of the road. Crags will have been visible from the moment you pass the lodges, and the creek will be nearby and on the right. The key is to find the pullout on the left as you head East. If you come to the FR260 fork, then you have gone too far. There will be a short embankment at the pullout and room for six or eight cars. Pick up a trail through the woods, on top of the embankment. This will take you up hill for 10 minutes or less to a short talus field and the trail will continue to the left where you will cross a small rock slide. Continue on the trail for another minute or so, and you will run right into the Rock.
- Wear shoes that are good for hiking a steep trail.
26 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Haus Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Haus Rock:
Top Soil 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch
The Spine 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Dink 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Sky Pilot 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Featured Route For Haus Rock
The Ol' Ball and Chain 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b CO
: Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma
: Haus Rock
This variation is named after my wife (JK), or the two routes it starts and finishes on. Start on the Crystal Ball undercling, at the 2nd bolt head directly right through the first bolt on crystal ball direct and up and right into the first bolt on Sky Pilot. Take a deep breath and finish up on Chainsaw. This line provides around 70 feet of climbing on a 50 foot wall. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
News and Events For Haus Rock
Latest Regional Forum Messages
The Crystal Ball, south side, Haus Rock.
10. They Call Me Shorty, 5.7, 4 bolts.
11. Little ...
1. Five Nine Top Rope, 5.8, TR.
2. Not Lichen This...
Almost to the chains.
|By Noah Gauss|
Jul 13, 2002
Hey Pat. Hey Matt. For the record, Crystal Ball on Haus Rock is generaly considered about 12a or b. As Pat said, there is a guide on this "small" area. It is not really much of a destination just because of the size. The rock quality is decent though and it sits at about 10,000 ft. so it is cool. This is the Montezuma area described in High Country Crags. Mountain Outfitters in Breckenridge usually has a copy. This area is pretty hard to find, especially without the guide. Pat has put up a few routes since the guide was published, the best of which are the 8 and 9 on the back slabs of Haus.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 22, 2002
We climbed at Haus Rock on the w/e and were very impressed! It was hard to find and would be easier to find if you replace " You reach the rock by the right fork on the main trail" with "You reach the rock by the LEFT fork on the main trail" in the 2nd paragraph of Patrick Thompson's entry on 6/22/02. There is a small cairn - you head slightly up and across a small talus field . If you reach a boulder with 2 bolted lines on it you have missed the fork/cairn and gone too far up the main trail..
|By Tyler Erickson|
Jul 29, 2002
I found the directions to the main parking area a little obscure. This may help out... Exit US 6 as if you were to park in the dirt parking lots at River Run Village. Turn immediately left onto Gondola Road, which parallels US 6. This soon ends at Montezuma Road. Turn right onto Montezuma Road. Follow it up the canyon. After a long straightaway, the road turns right, then back left. The parking area is on the left hand side of the road, just before a sign that warns of a 20 mph left turn. From the exit off of US 6, the parking area is 1.5 miles.
|By Ben Scott|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 4, 2009
Anyone have descriptions for the routes on the southside (hard stuff)?
Any help would be great, thanks.
|By Nick Przybysz|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 11, 2010
MrBurns the stuff on the back side ranges from 5.10 up to a 5.14 project. There is a 5.13 that starts underneath a little roof. I think there are 3 bolts up to a permanent draw, after that it is a little run out until the top. Crystal Ball is a popular one, 5.12b. Starts just left of the big boulder close to the rock. Has 5 bolts up to the anchor. On the far right side there is a 5.10bish route that works up the side just right of a nice crack (trad?)
|By Evan Ratzan|
From: Lafayette, CO
Jul 26, 2010
I found an iPod when I was climbing here about a week ago. Send me an email if you are missing one, with a list of some songs on it, the type and color, etc.
|By Eric DeCaria|
Oct 27, 2010
Ok, so just to set the record straight. Posted the "Abstract Plain", and it's not a project. Also, did the first ascents of the route you are calling "Torqued Blow" and another route that starts on the last project in the center of the wall and finishes on the "Crystal Ball".
Jun 18, 2011
Found some climbing gear on June 14th. If you know of anyone who lost gear, get back to me to identify.
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jul 2, 2012
Top Soil, 5.10a, sport.
Side Plate, 5.10a, sport.
No Name, 5.10, sport.
Five Nine, 5.8, sport (I think it's here, might be left one).
Not Lichen This, 5.9+, sport.
Lichen This, 5.9, sport.
Not So Hostile Krainzover, 5.8, sport.
Hostile Krainzover, 5.10a, sport.
5.6 Crack, 5.6, trad.
Feet Do Not Fail Me Now, 5.8 sport, *Classic.
The Spine, 5.10+ sport, *Classic.
Flakin' Out, 5.10a.
Dirty Love, 5.9.
They Call Me Shorty, 5.7.
Little Squirt, 5.6.
Around the corner L->R
Little Haus, 5.10c, sport.
Throwin' The Drool Again, 5.11, sport.
Dink, 5.11, sport.
Macho Picasso, 5.13c, sport.
The Steep Stuff L->R
Abstract Plain, 5.14.
Crystal Ball, 5.12b.
The Ol' Ball and Chain, 5.12d.
Sky Pilot, 5.12d.
Torqued Blow, 5.13a.
|By Kevin Capps|
From: Golden, CO
Jul 14, 2013
What is the bolt line that starts to the left of Torqued Blow and just right of the boulder where Sky Pilot starts? It looks like it's a direct line that finishes to the left of the crack on the thin face straight above. I don't have a guidebook and couldn't find it here.
|By Brian Lichtenheld|
Jul 15, 2013
Kevin, my guidebook suggests the line between Sky Pilot and Torqued Blow is 'Burning Down the Haus' 5.12d. Appears to be a 8-12 foot runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. Anyone know if this line has seen an FA?
|By Kevin Capps|
From: Golden, CO
Jul 15, 2013
Thanks for the info! I got on it today, and while up the the 3rd bolt it felt like solid 12+ climbing, the sequence busting straight up past the last 2 bolts felt hard for me. Maybe I was missing something, but I thought it felt harder than Torqued Blow. Great route!
Jul 30, 2013
Hey Kevin Capps - Burning Down The Haus was a 12d, but holds above the horizontal seam no longer exist, and I do not believe it has seen an ascent in its current state. You should try The Ol' Ball and Chain.