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Jan 27, 2013
Jumping across the mace gap with a PBR
So im planning on going to yosemite and climbing the nose, the leaning tower, washington column...ect. i was wondering if people could weigh in on the value of having a mini/pro traxion vs just using a pully and 1 jumar.

Also any other big wall beta would be helpful...

thanks,
Rob
Robbie Brown
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Apr 1, 2012
359 points
Jan 27, 2013
A mini- traxion in my opinion has saved me tons of headache. On the other note as far as big wall beta goes; make sure your shit is well and together before you step on a route like the nose. It is not the place to hash out systems or technique for that matter. And get solid at jumaring until your sick of it...you will be. gunter
Joined Mar 2, 2011
13 points
Jan 27, 2013
Jumping across the mace gap with a PBR
Thanks man.
yeah i have climbed and hauled to dolt tower on the nose with a pro traxion and also did the nw regular on half dome so i understand systems pretty well. Im just trying to get some small pointers...
Robbie Brown
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Apr 1, 2012
359 points
Jan 27, 2013
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex ...
The new Micro-Trax is actually better than either the Mini or the Pro. It is small and easy to haul with.

The Mini-Trax is fine for small loads, but not El Cap sized loads. I use it on my zip line.

The Pro-Trax is a poorly engineered piece of crap that will fail under large loads, but will probably do you ok on medium-big loads.

The Kong Block-Roll is far and away the best device for BIG loads, however it is fairly big itself.
"Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Joined Dec 8, 2007
640 points
Jan 27, 2013
Top of the arches
A minitrax with a light load lets you do a 1 to 1 haul / space haul if you go for heavier loads. We had no major trouble with that system. David Gealy
From Berkeley, California
Joined Sep 19, 2011
15 points
Jan 28, 2013
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades
As a new big wall climber with one wall under my belt I'd recommend a 2:1 ratchet setup. The guys using 1:1 with a micro traxion were hurting on tough haul pitches.

Read my thread where I asked questions and got some really good feeback from the community:

mountainproject.com/v/21-haul-...
randy88fj62
Joined May 28, 2010
66 points
Jan 29, 2013
Which way again?
Pete, took a look at the Kong. From the pic, it's hard to see how this is better than a ProTrax or a basic, costs 2/3 less Rock Exotica Wall Hauler.

Any details on what makes the Kong so worthy?
Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
Feb 3, 2013
me at the top of higher spire!
great advise here!

supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2...
Mickey Sensenbach
From San luis obispo CA
Joined Dec 27, 2012
150 points
 
Feb 5, 2013
hudonpanos.com/Wall-Tips/2-to-... Taylor Jenkins
Joined Nov 18, 2011
1 points
Feb 8, 2013
P6 Bivy during the massive Rim Fire.
Any details on what makes the Kong so worthy?

The moment you start hauling with one, it becomes very obvious.

For starters the sheeve is larger, and sealed.
mucci
From sf ca
Joined Jan 29, 2007
473 points


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