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Haul Off and Heave
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Ridge 2
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Arete Funicello S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bladerunner S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dixie Rising T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Dry Heave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Haul Off and Heave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Heave Ho T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Krack-a-Toe-ah (submitted as Safecracker) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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LIPSTICK S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mouth of the South T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Move Like a Stud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slab Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slab Right S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sleeping Digit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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South of the Mouth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sportin' a Woodie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | D. Fortner & T. Collins, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 652 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Sep 12, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
This is one of the best routes of the ten or so I did at Ridge-2 one day. It gets 2 stars for R2, maybe 2 stars elsewhere for fun climbing, but it would be tough to give it that next to a multi-pitch classic... the route is a mere 60' tall, so the fun is over too soon.
This climb is perhaps 100m up the hill from the 'Move Like A Stud' area. It is distinguished by the 3 bolts up on the upper half, with a huge, red, right-facing, hanging dihedral to the left (the climb 'Heave Ho') and a crack with overhangs and a tree 4m up in it to the right (the climb 'Sleeping Digit').
Start at the base below a roof, setting a few medium stoppers from the ground and a move or two up. I did not use slings on these to avoid a potential groundfall. Pull up on very physical moves (solid 5.11?!?!?) to get established above the roof. Like Move Like a Stud, I feel the climb's grade excludes the bolder-problem start. Climb up and left on good holds (5.8?), then back right under a flake, placing a quiver of small cams on long slings, then pull the bulge above it on good holds (5.9). Clip a fixed pin and make a few more moderate moves to reach the first bolt. Continue climbing up and at the right edge of the face to reach the top of the cliff. The 10c crux is toward the top.
A trad anchor can be built above the climb 'Heave Ho' to the left (West).
To descend, walk 20m down to a steep 4th-class ramp, or 50m down to the rap from 'Move Like A Stud.'
VARIATIONS:
A) One can avoid the boulder-problem start by climbing in from the right on good holds. (10c, since you skip the 5.11 start).
B) After pulling over the second overhang, you can continue up and left after the pin to hit the top of the cliff at the anchor for 'Heave Ho.' I called it "Dry Heave." The grade is 10d(?) S/VS. It is a decent line. Probable FA: T. Bubb, J. Meir, 9/12/04). There are no bolts in reach & no pro, but you could preclip the first bolt and come back over....
This climb is perhaps 100m up the hill from the 'Move Like A Stud' area. It is distinguished by the 3 bolts up on the upper half, with a huge, red, right-facing, hanging dihedral to the left (the climb 'Heave Ho') and a crack with overhangs and a tree 4m up in it to the right (the climb 'Sleeping Digit').
Start at the base below a roof, setting a few medium stoppers from the ground and a move or two up. I did not use slings on these to avoid a potential groundfall. Pull up on very physical moves (solid 5.11?!?!?) to get established above the roof. Like Move Like a Stud, I feel the climb's grade excludes the bolder-problem start. Climb up and left on good holds (5.8?), then back right under a flake, placing a quiver of small cams on long slings, then pull the bulge above it on good holds (5.9). Clip a fixed pin and make a few more moderate moves to reach the first bolt. Continue climbing up and at the right edge of the face to reach the top of the cliff. The 10c crux is toward the top.
A trad anchor can be built above the climb 'Heave Ho' to the left (West).
To descend, walk 20m down to a steep 4th-class ramp, or 50m down to the rap from 'Move Like A Stud.'
VARIATIONS:
A) One can avoid the boulder-problem start by climbing in from the right on good holds. (10c, since you skip the 5.11 start).
B) After pulling over the second overhang, you can continue up and left after the pin to hit the top of the cliff at the anchor for 'Heave Ho.' I called it "Dry Heave." The grade is 10d(?) S/VS. It is a decent line. Probable FA: T. Bubb, J. Meir, 9/12/04). There are no bolts in reach & no pro, but you could preclip the first bolt and come back over....
Protection
The route is a mixed route with 3 bolts, a pin, and some gear. If done climbing in from the left, it is a reasonably runout route on climbing at the 5.9- level with gear at the cruxes. If climbed from directly below, medium stoppers can protect the bouldery start. Rossiter refers to a missing pin, but it is not needed. 2 successive "Slashes" above the start have textbook gear opportunities.
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