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Mt. Willard
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Hattie's Garden 
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Willey Brook Bandits 

Hattie's Garden 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Ahearn and Nick Dukehart May 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 291
Submitted By: Bob A on Jun 17, 2012
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Description 

The climb is located on the Gully #1 buttress below the Gully#1 winter ice climb.Fun climb with interesting moves on nice rock.The crux is at the first bolt but the first gear is about 20 ft up so there is a bit of an entrance fee but not too hard to get to.

Climb the face just left of the right hand side of the "rainbow" weakness to protection about 20 ft up on the right.A couple of balancey moves to a mantle and stance to clip the first bolt.Step a little left,pull the crux and climb up slightly left past three more well spaced bolts to the two bolt anchor on Land Ahoy.


Location 

To find the Gully#1 buttress,look for a large gravel pullout on the cliff side of rt 302 in Crawford Notch between the two sets of guardrails.Park here and follow a well marked trail up to Hattie's Memorial Garden on the tracks(10 min).Turn right and follow tracks for 2 minutes,cross a small drainage in the tracks and look for a small clearing on the left with a small cairn.Follow path of least resistence straight up to the cliff.

Look for an obvious flake/arch(life By the Tracks)which forms the left side of the "rainbow"weakness.Start on the face about 8 ft left of the right hand weakness.Rappell with two ropes or with one 60m down to anchor on Part the Sea below garden terrace on left,then down and left to start of that climb.


Protection 

Gear from .4 to #3.5 Camalot for the moves before the first bolt.Then four draws to two bolt rap anchor on Land Ahoy.



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By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Jun 18, 2012

Very fun route! Nutsy start to the gear placement, but the movs are all there. I think this is a three star route but I could be biased!! :) Nice find Bob!