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 ADVANCED
Perfect Crimb Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Advanced Birding S 
Crank-n-Go-Go S 
Demystification S 
Don't Mean Nothin' T 
Fallout, aka Perfect Sex S 
Gear Fear T,S 
Hateful Pleasures T,S 
Lacuna S 
One Hand Jam S 
Perfect Crimb, The S 
Pulldown Menu S 
Technical Difficulties S 
Vice Squad S 
Unsorted Routes:

Hateful Pleasures 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 1,716
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on May 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Jon leading one of my favorite routes at RW. I lo...

Description 

Follow three bolts on somewhat sandy/dirty climbing to the base of a dihedral crack to the right of the roof. Place nuts in the crack and cruise to the two bolt anchor. Be sure to bring gear as you are looking at a ground fall from the top if you don't place any. The upper crack takes good gear and goes at about 5.7. The bottom face climbing is forgetable but the crack is a lot of fun.

  • RCM&W #88, p. 131.


Location 

Hateful Pleasures lies immediately to the right of the large roof.


Protection 

3 bolts at the bottom, nuts at the top. Small cams might also be useful. The two anchors are spread out a bit, long slings might be helpful for setting up a top rope anchor. Please use your own gear for top roping.



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By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Jul 18, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Great lead! The crack is great. This is great intro for a aspiring trad climber as you can stem and get hands free placements for the gear in the top.

Bring the larger size nuts (BD ~7 to 13)
Optionally bring BD C3 #1 & #2, and BD C4 #0.4 & #0.5

The anchor bolts are far apart and 2ft slings make a nice anchor.

By Bobby Marko
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 10, 2011

This has new anchors with chains and carabiners so you no longer need slings for your anchor.

By JimmyHann
Nov 5, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun climb, but this would probably go at 5.6 if were at devils lake!!

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 6, 2012

devil's lake is the most badass climbing spot -- nay, destination! -- in the world. it's like ceuse meets hard grit. totally.