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Hatchet Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bill Conrod, Ed Anderson, 1964
Page Views: 4,088
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 3, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (79)
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Triznut's first time on Hatchet. Great Crack!!!
The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>


Approach as per Schoolroom, but as you are clambering up the boulder field that exits from the gully, continue up the gully, staying close to the right edge. You will hit a big box elder tree-- here climb up to a ledge and follow this ledge/ramp to the right. Watch for the crack. It is easy to miss.This crack is a fun lead. It progresses from hand to off-hand and even has little finger and fist. In other words a good varied crack. Very enjoyable.


The anchor consists of an old 1/4 inch bolt and a flake. I remember talking to someone back in 2002 that said he was going to replace the anchor--. Otherwise bring small slings for the flake. The crack protects well with a standard rack. No, matter how tempting, don't cheat yourself and clip the bolts on the arete climb.

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The bottom crack is Hatchet Crack.
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Hatchet Crack.
BETA PHOTO: Hatchet Crack.
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 19, 2013
By Peter Gram
From: Park City, UT
May 25, 2004

The anchor now has a bomber bolt, plus the webbing around the horn. It would be possible to rap from here, but it might take 2 ropes? From the anchor, a medium length pitch tops out Schoolroom using either Movie Variation or Schoolroom P5.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 7, 2004

Great Crack!! Not to be missed.

By Jason Billings
From: Draper, UT
May 3, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Be careful on the scramble over to the beginning. We had a 63M rope that got us back to the bottom with one rappel, but just barely. You could rappel twice, with a shorter rope, by rappelling down to the anchors on top of Primal Scream.

By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 21, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Gear Alert

The anchor no longer has the sling and rap ring around the flake. You can continue up to the tree on Schoolroom, but expect company on weekends. If you plan on rapping the route, bring some webbing and a ring.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 6, 2005

Climbed it last night and added some webbing and a rap ring on what I assumed to be "the horn" just above the bomber bolt with two rap rings. A 70m rope got us back to the ramp with just a few feet to spare. Don't worry though, cause as stated above you could do 2 one rope raps using the anchors on the slab route next too it. Gear was solid the whole way. Climb felt kinda like an offwidth sloping the wrong way. I thought the crux was just above where the book says it is. Just my $0.02

By tenesmus
Sep 9, 2006

70 makes it back down nicely. If you do the link up to the Movie variation, be sure to bring some extra webbing and a rap ring or something.

By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

A fun route!

By chrisnsmith
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 9, 2007

Great climb. I combined this with the Movie Variation today. The first two times I climbed this, I thought the crux was in the bulging section. This time, the crux for me was definitely above that section.

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
May 21, 2010

classic LCC trad! Anchor is bomber - thanks to whoever put that in!

Looks like a new bolt line to the right on the slab? Any info???

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 21, 2010

That's a TC route that goes at 5.12 something, it's in the book, can't remember the name. 3 or 4 bolts of heinous slabbing to an anchor in the middle of nowhere. Climbs like ass.

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jun 18, 2010

Thanks - shoulda known when I saw that anchor! :) Gotta pick up that 'new' book one of these days...

By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
Mar 13, 2012

Climbed this today and really enjoyed it. Fun, physical LCC 5.7. Awkward but fun. The bolt at the anchor looked bomber and the webbing around the horn was good. I used roughly a set of cams to #4 and a few nuts. We continued up another pitch by climbing the last pitch of Schoolroom.

And yeah, a 70m rope was just barely enough to get down.

By verticalworldtraveler
From: Midvale, UT
Nov 19, 2013

I climbed a fun variation of this route yesterday, mistakenly thinking I was on Lizzie Borden. I took the left crack (closer to the Rumba arÍte, clearly visible in the photo) and rejoined with the standard Hatchet route 15' or so before the anchor. I turned out to be a well protected and entertaining combination of good hand jams and face climbing on the abundant knobs. I found the crux to be the same as for Hatchet before stepping over but it remains sustained and physical with that Little Cottonwood Lean! If you have already done Hatchet give this a try. Single rack is adequate maybe doubles #.75-#2