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Hatcher Pass

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Archangel Valley Bouldering - Diamond, Fairangel, Monolith, Roadside, Indianhead 
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Reed Lakes Bouldering and Climbing 

Hatcher Pass 


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Elevation: 3,886'
Location: 61.81347, -149.25537 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 52,064
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Luke to Zuke on Jul 17, 2008
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Adrienne Kentner following P2 of Ruby Shoes 5.7
Archangel Valley Bridge Closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a very untouched climbing area or rather unknown, full of FA's. The rock is blocky granite with alot of moss because the area receives steady rain in the spring and fall. Current sites covering bouldering at Hatcher Pass are www.akclimber.com, run by Todd Helgeson.

A bouldering guide to Alaska was recently released by Todd Helgeson and covers most of the bouldering in Alaska and features an in depth Hatcher Pass section with great details and photos, to get the boulderer where they want to be climbing. The guide is available for sale at www.akclimber.com


Two rockclimbing guides cover the climbing in Hatcher Pass, both are by Kelsey Gray. They are "Alaska Rock Climbing Guide" and is available in two volumes.


Getting There 

From Anchorage drive north on the Glenn Highway, 30 minutes, to Palmer. Continue through two stop lights, prior to ascending the large hill, that leaves Palmer. Keep following the Glenn to N. Palmer Fishhook Rd., which will be on the left hand side, approximately 2 miles from the 1st stop light. You will take this for 30 minutes. Drive parallel to the Little Susitna river up to the "Mother Lode Lodge" take the sharp U-turn, head up the hill for a few hundred yards, then take the easy-to-miss, sharp right up a single gravel road,you will see the Archangel Rd. sign. Continue on this past a river and then over a bridge. The climbing begins approximately 3.75 miles up. The bouldering starts at the Aldershade Boulders(marked by a large cairn on the right side of the road) on the right hand side, hidden by view, but right off the side of the road, around mile 1.75 from the start of Archangel Road. A 4x4 is required if you want to drive past the Reed Lakes Trailhead parking lot, which is approximately 2.5 miles up the road from the start.


129 Total Routes


['4 Stars',25],['3 Stars',63],['2 Stars',27],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',11],['5.8',14],['5.9',19],['5.10',25],['5.11',13],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',6],['V2-3',13],['V4-5',8],['V6-7',6],['V8-9',6],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hatcher Pass:
Dr. Horrible   V2 5+     Boulder, Alpine, 15'   Independence Mine Boulderin... : Captain Kaboom Boulders
Crackhead   V3-4 6A+     Boulder, 15'   Archangel Bouldering : Dimond North
Snowflake   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Reed Lakes Bouldering and C... : SnowBird Slab/Cornerstone
Physical Attraction   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Zulu Wall
Rise   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   Reed Lakes Bouldering and C... : The High Dive
Orangutan Overhang   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Monolith
New School   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 70'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Jungle Gym
As good as it gets   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 20'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Jungle Gym
Randys roof   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 100'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Jungle Gym
The RP boys   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Jungle Gym
Thin As Ice   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 130'   Reed Lakes Bouldering and C... : SnowBird Slab/Cornerstone
Freedom Roof    5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 90'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Monolith
Voodoo Child   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Zulu Wall
Zulu Warrior   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Zulu Wall
Toto   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 6 pitches   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Diamond
African Dreams    5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   Fairangel Gap and Valley : Bill's Wall
Blue Berry Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 50'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Green Gully
Epidemic    5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 50'   Fairangel Gap and Valley : Bill's Wall
The Brown Spot   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 120'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Green Gully
3rd Generation   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : 3rd Generation Wall
Browse More Classics in Hatcher Pass

Featured Route For Hatcher Pass
Dane Ketner uses up the last of the daylight, bringing up the rear on the FA of Rise in Reed Valley, Alaska.

Rise 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : ... : The High Dive
P1: Climb a pitch of moderate slab with spacey pro to a crazy needle of granite standing on end. Two-bolt anchor is just to the right.P2: Follow the slab to the right along the base of the steep headwall to an obvious crack system that will take you to the top. UPDATE: As of 7-9-14 step right to a two-bolt anchor just below the P3 crack.P3: Head up the crack system. About 20 feet off the slab it splits into two nice hand cracks. Follow it to a mouth-like ledge overlooking the incredible scene...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

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