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 ADVANCED
Hatcher Pass

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Archangel Valley Bouldering - Diamond, Fairangel, Monolith, Roadside, Indianhead 
Archangel Valley Sport and Traditional Climbing 
Glacier Creek Drainage and Snowbird Glacier 
Independence Mine Bouldering and Climbing 
Reed Lakes Bouldering and Climbing 

Hatcher Pass  


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Elevation: 3,886'
Location: 61.81347, -149.25537 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 60,693
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Luke to Zuke on Jul 17, 2008
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Ben in the crux of Epidemic.

Archangel Valley Bridge Closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a very untouched climbing area or rather unknown, full of FA's. The rock is blocky granite with alot of moss because the area receives steady rain in the spring and fall. Current sites covering bouldering at Hatcher Pass are akclimber.com, run by Todd Helgeson.

A bouldering guide to Alaska was recently released by Todd Helgeson and covers most of the bouldering in Alaska and features an in depth Hatcher Pass section with great details and photos, to get the boulderer where they want to be climbing. The guide is available for sale at akclimber.com


Two rockclimbing guides cover the climbing in Hatcher Pass, both are by Kelsey Gray. They are "Alaska Rock Climbing Guide" and is available in two volumes.

Getting There 

From Anchorage drive north on the Glenn Highway, 30 minutes, to Palmer. Continue through two stop lights, prior to ascending the large hill, that leaves Palmer. Keep following the Glenn to N. Palmer Fishhook Rd., which will be on the left hand side, approximately 2 miles from the 1st stop light. You will take this for 30 minutes. Drive parallel to the Little Susitna river up to the "Mother Lode Lodge" take the sharp U-turn, head up the hill for a few hundred yards, then take the easy-to-miss, sharp right up a single gravel road,you will see the Archangel Rd. sign. Continue on this past a river and then over a bridge. The climbing begins approximately 3.75 miles up. The bouldering starts at the Aldershade Boulders(marked by a large cairn on the right side of the road) on the right hand side, hidden by view, but right off the side of the road, around mile 1.75 from the start of Archangel Road. A 4x4 is required if you want to drive past the Reed Lakes Trailhead parking lot, which is approximately 2.5 miles up the road from the start.

Climbing Season



Weather station 15.6 miles from here

140 Total Routes

['4 Stars',30],['3 Stars',65],['2 Stars',29],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',11],['5.8',15],['5.9',21],['5.10',28],['5.11',16],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',7],['V2-3',13],['V4-5',8],['V6-7',7],['V8-9',6],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hatcher Pass:
Dr. Horrible   V2 5+     Boulder, Alpine, 15'   Independence Mine Boulderin... : Captain Kaboom Boulders
The Slot   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Monolith
Physical Attraction   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Zulu Wall
Snowflake   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Reed Lakes Bouldering and C... : SnowBird Slab/Cornerstone
Rise   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   Reed Lakes Bouldering and C... : The High Dive
As good as it gets   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 20'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Jungle Gym
New School   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 70'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Jungle Gym
Randys roof   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 100'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Jungle Gym
Orangutan Overhang   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Monolith
The RP boys   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Jungle Gym
Thin As Ice   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 130'   Reed Lakes Bouldering and C... : SnowBird Slab/Cornerstone
Freedom Roof    5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 90'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Monolith
Festoon   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Diamond
Zulu Warrior   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Zulu Wall
Voodoo Child   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Zulu Wall
Toto   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 6 pitches   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : The Diamond
African Dreams    5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   Fairangel Gap and Valley : Tin Can Rock
Blue Berry Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 50'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Green Gully
Epidemic    5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 50'   Fairangel Gap and Valley : Tin Can Rock
The Brown Spot   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 120'   Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Green Gully
Browse More Classics in Hatcher Pass

Featured Route For Hatcher Pass
Willy P checks out tunnel vision

Tunnel Vision 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : ... : Tunnel Vision
A short, but classic finger crack. climb through nice locks to a rattly section just before the chains. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

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