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Climb thin cracks (crux) to just below the prow where the crack forks. Take the right side (fingers) to the widening crack above. The last 30' is flaring squeeze chimney/offwidth. This is where a big (5 friend) piece might be nice, otherwise it's a long way without reliable gear. Belay from large boulders on top.
A very good route with real climbing in the first half.
Far right side of Red Diamond, on top of a ledge. Expect some scrambling to gain the belay area. To get there from the middle section of the wall, walk slightly downhill around the small buttress, then up scree and ramps, to a final bouldery section.
Look for thin cracks going straight up to a prow, and a 3' roof above and right.
To descend: downclimb exposed 4th class terrain to the right.
0tcu-4BD, nuts (micros may help), a #5 friend would take the spice out of the moderate, flaring squeeze at the top.
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 23, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
fun climbing with solid pro. sustained and quite technical in the first half.