Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Joe Terravechia, Peter Rice '87
Page Views: 883 total · 5/month
Shared By: Chris Prewitt on Sep 18, 2009
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Climb thin cracks (crux) to just below the prow where the crack forks. Take the right side (fingers) to the widening crack above. The last 30' is flaring squeeze chimney/offwidth. This is where a big (5 friend) piece might be nice, otherwise it's a long way without reliable gear. Belay from large boulders on top.
A very good route with real climbing in the first half.

Location Suggest change

Far right side of Red Diamond, on top of a ledge. Expect some scrambling to gain the belay area. To get there from the middle section of the wall, walk slightly downhill around the small buttress, then up scree and ramps, to a final bouldery section.
Look for thin cracks going straight up to a prow, and a 3' roof above and right.
To descend: downclimb exposed 4th class terrain to the right.

Protection Suggest change

0tcu-4BD, nuts (micros may help), a #5 friend would take the spice out of the moderate, flaring squeeze at the top.

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