Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
We had thought this was possibly a first ascent, BUT after recently receiving some updated info from Kent McClannan, he and Bruce Miller had already climbed this fun line in 2010!
We didn't climb it until October 3, 2012. We weren't sure if anyone had done this variation before, but it was well worth the effort!! Climb the 5.6 corner to start, then keep left at its top to gain the broken ledge at the base of the "Kor Direct" 2nd pitch. Start up the "Kor Direct", instead of trending left to black rock, continue up and right to the obvious, 2" crack that disappears up into the clean face (I've climbed up this way and then traversed back left to the "Kor Direct" and it is a fun way to go also...). Place a few bomber cams in the disappearing crack. Step out right below a shallow, right-facing, seamless corner that leads up into the wide looking crack out the left side of the roof above. A series of runout liebacks and edges brings you up under the roof. A 3.5" cam protects the steep, wide slot up to 5.9 climbing above....
I feel the difficulty was very similar to the the roofy cruxes at the top of "Eat Or Be Eaten" with an "R-ish" rating. This is really an awesome pitch at 5.10b R (120').
Nice find, Drew! This is a good addition to the area. Similar in nature to p2 of Super Slab direct start. Needs to clean up a little bit, but overall it's a solid route and another good way to start Super Slab or Doub Griffith. Consider bringing a couple extra cams, #2-#3 Camalots.
Hey Mike, just last week I received and email from Kent after he noticed my post of this route. Bruce Miller and Kent McClannan had climbed this line in 2010 and named it Hasting's Cutoff, 5.10b. It seems likely that someone might have at least toproped it back in the day, but regardless, this is really a cool addition to the Super Arete area!