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Hassig's Libido 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris hassig, fall of 1981
Page Views: 316
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 4, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: So here is the route... my understanding is that t...

Description 

Took me a while just to figure out where this route was due to the copious amount of lichen growing on the upper half. I have since played on it on toprope and it seems like there are two options.

Both options start by climbing a pretty corner to an OK rest below the crux roof. What i thought was the truer line went straight up over the roof with good protection though there is a big tree under you that you wouldn't want to hit. This line seems to be about right as far as the grade is concerned.

The line as it is described in the guide book climbs out right under the roof and out a "crack" the crack is shallow and will take gear well but wouldn't be too crack like climbing wise, I climbed this section more as a face as well. The Pin is way out right so much so that id be sketched to try to use it when I've got a good crack for gear. The only advantage to the original (if I'm correct) line is that you don't climb above the tree. The grade seems the same...

The route needs a really good cleaning and I plan to do that soon.


Location 

Starts on the same corner as Mark's Route. By the big birch tree.


Protection 

Cams and nuts also a pin if you want it.



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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 14, 2009

Your description matches exactly what I found. At one point we had though of cleaning and retroing it a little, but we decided not to so as not to piss off people by retroing a dead man's route. Personally, I think the route would be improved by the addition of a bolt or 2 in the chossy top bulge, but gear placements can be found if you really have a desire to lead it. We had even thought of breaking out a ouji board to get permission, but decided to just put an anchor in so people could TR it since there is another route to the left that can be used to reach it. While doing a preliminary cleaning, some loose stuff came out from the left hand variation so some holds may have not been there when Hassig made his ascent.

Hassig was one of the early pioneers of Rumney, after the Wendals, before his death in a mountaineering accident in South America

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 15, 2009

yeah i dont know if it needs bolting i liked it on gear, but the anchor is nice... thanks...