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 ADVANCED
Old Sandstone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"The Nipple" 
Africa Crack T 
Alligator Wall T,TR 
American Beauty Crack T,TR 
Baker Street TR 
Broken Foot T 
Chez's Chimney T,TR 
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 
Curving Crack T,TR 
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 
Deceptive T,TR 
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 
Everleigh Club Crack T 
Freaky Face T,TR 
Gargantua T,TR 
Girls Named Sue T 
Half Crack T,TR 
Has Been T,TR 
High Life, The TR 
Mammalary Magic T,TR 
One-Upper T,TR 
Out There TR 
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 
Ptooey T 
Sepsen Wall T,TR 
Seven Seas TR 
Sherlocked T,TR 
Swillbillies T 
Tarantula T 
Team Arturo T,TR 
Uberschmidt TR 
Wave Mechanics TR 
Wobbly Dihedral T 

Has Been 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: First lead: Steve Sangdahl
Season: Spring/Fall
Page Views: 919
Submitted By: James M Schroeder on Sep 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Has Been is the face between Wobbly Dihedral and C...

Description 

Has Been exists in the face between Wobbly D and Chez's Chimney. It is an exceptional route considering how often it is overlooked. Basically the idea is to thrutch up the face towards the giant cobble 2/3 of the way up on the left side of the route. Once the cobble is attained the route softens, but until then it is a stiff endeavor.


Protection 

Most people will want a TR, but thin gear will help for those bold enough to lead.



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Leading "Has Been".
Leading "Has Been".
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 21, 2011
By Leo Hski
Nov 27, 2006

The name was Sangdahl's response to my poor attempts at drunken humor one night in the Avalon- I had foolishly (and erroneously) called the DLFA a "bunch of has-beens". Steve led this route the next day, and made me a member of the DLFA the following week.

It was a glorious ride downhill from there!

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Oct 20, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This was a superb climb. Now that I have climbed it, I would put it up there with my favorite climbs in the Old Sandstone.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Oct 21, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Description:

Has Been starts with some underclings into a few reachy moves. The climb slowly moves left on the face until you reach the middle. This is the crux. Figuring out the sequence here is key. Once you get into it, a few small crimps will pull you through to the large cobble. Once the cobble is reached, the climbing is much easier, around 5.9 or so.

By Tradoholic
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Yea, definitely overlooked. I went for the OS but whipped on the only good gear on the route, thankfully.

The first horizontal is where the good gear is, this will protect the crimpy crux to a nice ledge for a no hands rest. The next horizontal provides one good C3 and the climbing eases considerably from there. "R" rated for the runout.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 7, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Did you send clean after the whipper?

By Tradoholic
Aug 7, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Yep, sent later. I just pumped out of the first try and the crimp section has a definite easy sequence to it, but I missed it on the first try.

By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Jul 19, 2011

Rhoads how well could you sow this up? Did you give it pg 13 because of what you found on the onsight, or do you think its some what sketchy no matter what?

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 19, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Strong, I think we should both try to OS this thing. It'd be a good outing at Old Sandstone and while we're at it... I'll lead Mammalary Magic too. Gotta do that before I head to Vegas. But, the gear on this thing looks good just probably spaced out and perhaps even R rated considering the top is mellower climbing (it looks) without gear.

By Tradoholic
Jul 20, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

There's the decent pro right before the crux but it runs out from there. I can't recall exactly but I think I said PG-13 because the climbing is easier after the crux.

My ratings are always based on the lead, so yea, it's sketchy.

MM is "x" rated, I wouldn't advise an OS on that one.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 20, 2011

You can fiddle some gear in on MM at the start. Also... above the manky bolt you can step right breifly and get a piece (can't remember what but it was pretty good) in the crack thing to the right (put a long sling on it) then step back left and do the face/slab climbing of the route proper. It isn't a purist approach but would eliminate the X factor....

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 21, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Nothing eliminates the X factor when Jungle Dog and myself get together. However, I've sussed gear on MM and to eliminate the true X factor I placed a .75 to the right of that bomber bolt. Definitely wouldn't advise an OS of MM either! Thanks for the beta.

By Tradoholic
Jul 21, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Right of the bolt on MM is off route.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 21, 2011

Lead MM OS just utilizing the bolt for gear and you have done your duty..... after that you can reach over into that crack off to the right and get some proper protection....you could maybe duct tape a small diameter spectra sling over that inbedded pebble too.