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North Face
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Dancing Feet T 
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Deception Direct T 
Harvey's Wallbangers, Center T 
Harvey's Wallbangers, Right T 
Knapsack Crack T 
Manic Depressive Direct T 
Reds Delight T 
Spam Sandwich T 
Wave Rider T 

Harvey's Wallbangers, Right 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,108
Submitted By: andrewjessee1 on Sep 26, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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BETA PHOTO: Harvey's Wallbanger, Right, seen from the starting...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

More Sustained than the Center route. Pretty strait forward. First pitch has a lot of easy lay back and face. Crux section is on the short, if you belay about 180' from the start, second pitch. Two bulges with good hands.


Location 

Just right of Harvey's Wallbangers, Center.


Protection 

set nuts, cams .5 to 3 in



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By Michaeld916
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 15, 2010

Route is worth doing if you're trying to break away from 5.5-5.6 trad.

First pitch is dirty till about half way up, then it follows a pretty fun crack about 40 feet till 2nd pitch. From there, burn up the rest of the crack to a couple of awkward bulges. First one requires some nice jamming skills and high feet. Second (the "5.7" ) bulge will scare you if you're only looking at the tiny dike running parallel with the crack. Look to the right for a solid crack, then do a horizontal pull up (beach whale) or with finesse, then it's sent.

By Josh Cameron
Jul 17, 2011

Fun liebacking with a fun roof. A #4 C4 will protect the crux move. I always felt the first bulge was the crux, while the second was relatively tame. Just follow Michael's beta and you should be fine.