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Hart Route 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 4 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring, Fall, Winter
Page Views: 1,597
Submitted By: ClimbPHX.com on Aug 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Beehive on Hart Route, April 2010.

Description 

Climbing is typical Camelback clmbing
P1 - Start about 130 feet right of Pedricks Chimney in trough - Easy climbing past bolt to large two bolt belay 5.0
P2 Continue up to an overhang, and climb left to chimney section. Can protect long runout with #2 if you feel the need.
P3 Traverse right around the corner into class 3 gulley and to the base of the 60 foot friction pitch - i bolt(?)
P4 Climb 5.2 face past 2 bolts to top
Rap off Pedricks chimney


Location 

South of the Monk - Obvious start to the right of Pedricks...


Protection 

One bolt on each pitch with good anchor at P1 and a good tree at P2. Pitch three has 2 bolt anchor
Used a couple BD cams in crack leading to Chimney for fun and practice...Newbies may find this helpful for the runout.



Photos of Hart Route Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 2
Pitch 2
View from top of P4.  People seen on the left are on top or P2, people on the right on top of P3.  The guy in the red helmet (P3 top) is 5 feet from the bee hive.
View from top of P4. People seen on the left are ...
Lauren leading p4 of the Hart Route.
Lauren leading p4 of the Hart Route.
Comments on Hart Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 27, 2010
By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
Oct 1, 2008

I left gear up on the top of the first pitch to assist anyone that wants to rappell off the anchors, please do not booty. They are there for everyone,

Climb On!

By ray stern
Oct 1, 2008

For recent climbers of Hart Route, what was the bee situation like? There is a hive next to this route that has cause a death in the past.

By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
Feb 16, 2009

I just wanted to thank whoever decided to take the gear that I left on pitch three to assist those who followed me with the rappel off of this route. I thought since only climbers went up there that there may be a slight chance in hell that whoever went up there might actually leave it there for others. guess it just goes to show that people are still just people...

By the way, the bees are active and out - they are located in the hive to the left of the beginning of the third pitch...

By Scott Frankel
Mar 17, 2009

I was talking with Rogil today about the bees on this route and I thought it might be helpful to post some additional information on where the bees live. She mentioned the beehive is located before starting the final pitch. Before you get to the final pitch, you walk up a gully. Just as you start walking up the gully, if you look up and a little left you should be able to see the beehive. It looks like a big stain on the wall.
(thanks for the beta Rogil!)

By ZEric
From: Surprise, AZ
Jan 12, 2010

The best way I've found to minimize the chances of a bee encounter is to combine P3 & P4. At the bottom of P4 just clip the belay bolt with a 4' draw and keep on going, the rope drag isn't bad. That way no one is hanging around the nest getting the bees overly agitated. This is easily done with a 60m rope. In a party of more than two, consider having a rope between climbers and use at 4' draw as a directional at the top of the 3rd.

By Nat Shultz
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 21, 2010

Climbed this super Camelback classic yet again on 3/20/10. NO bee issues to be found. The nest that used to be at the base of the last pitch is gone (park service clean up?). So no bees, easy fun climbing. Get on er' and enjoy.

P.S. Please don't leave webbing on the route for others. It's trash. Take it with you... If someone has to bail, let them figure it out for themselves. It's supposed to be an adventure afterall.

By Cole-J
Mar 22, 2010

I just climbed the Hart route on the 19th and one of the guys in my party got stung twice by the bees during the climb. However, there was no bee problem once we got to the top.

By ray stern
Jun 1, 2010

Freesoloed Hart Route on April 24. Awesome day. Bees extremely active in hive just below the friction pitch. I snuck by without getting stung. Anyone going up there should beware of a swarm attack, and maybe think beforehand about how you'd handle that kind of emergency.

By OliverS
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 3, 2010

Climbed this route on June 27, 2010. We both got swarmed by a couple of bees just below the friction pitch. I got stung 4 times. Ended up not climbing the last pitch and bailed towards the left on the ledge with the tree - heard another bee hive but didn't stick around to investigate. Climbed to the upper ledge. More bee activity there. Down climbed over to Pedrick's Chimney rap station.

This is not a route I would recommend climbing. Imagine if you get attacked by the whole swarm as you belay your partner.

By ZEric
From: Surprise, AZ
Nov 24, 2010

Another bee incident was reported this week in the newspaper where out of state climbers were stung and the fire department got involved. There is a real danger on this route. Last time I climbed it was in May 2010 with a group of 5. There was bee activity, but we combined the 3rd and 4th pitch to minimize time spent near the hive at the top of the 3rd pitch and no one was stung.

By Elliot Warden
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 27, 2010

Bee Attack - watch out!