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Harry Potter Wand

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Der Stein der Weisen S 
Dr. Snape S 
Du weißt schon wer S 
Duddley S 
Dumbledore S 
Muggel S 
Onkel Vernon S 
Tante Petunia S 
Voldemort S 

Harry Potter Wand  


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Location: 49.8507, 11.3302 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 287
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jul 23, 2013
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A nice view of nearly the whole crag. This climber...

Description 

Shady north-facing crag with lots of well-protected routes. The crag seeps forever, making several of the routes unclimbable throughout most of the year. Wait for long dry periods. It had snowed/rained a lot throughout the Winter/Spring in 2013 and the crag was still seeping in July even after 3 weeks of no rain!
There are several short, powerful routes on the far left, then it eases into less powerful and slightly longer, then there are some more hard routes which follow small holds, and finally longer routes on the far right.
You should be able to climb 5.11 to have a nice day here, as there are only 5 routes under 5.11a. There are 20 routes total, maxing out at 5.13a.

Getting There 

From Waischenfeld, drive in the direction of Nankendorf. Where the road heads left to Breitenlesau, there's a parking area on the left right before the turn. Park here and cross the road that goes to Breitenlesau. You'll see a forest service road headed up into the forest. Follow this for 140m to a little climber's trail on the left which leads straight to the crag.

Climbing Season



Weather station 14.9 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',4],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Harry Potter Wand
Me in the first half of Tante Petunia

Tante Petunia 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  Europe : Germany : ... : Harry Potter Wand
Climbs a bit harder holds than on Onkel Vernon, but basically more of the same....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Harry Potter Wand Slideshow Add Photo
The 3 left-most routes, Duddley, Tante Petunia and Onkel Vernon.
BETA PHOTO: The 3 left-most routes, Duddley, Tante Petunia and...

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