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Shady north-facing crag with lots of well-protected routes. The crag seeps forever, making several of the routes unclimbable throughout most of the year. Wait for long dry periods. It had snowed/rained a lot throughout the Winter/Spring in 2013 and the crag was still seeping in July even after 3 weeks of no rain!
From Waischenfeld, drive in the direction of Nankendorf. Where the road heads left to Breitenlesau, there's a parking area on the left right before the turn. Park here and cross the road that goes to Breitenlesau. You'll see a forest service road headed up into the forest. Follow this for 140m to a little climber's trail on the left which leads straight to the crag.
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Voldemort 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Europe : Germany : ... : Harry Potter Wand
The first bolt is a little high compared to other routes here, but the clipping hold is a jug. It may be full of water, but it's still good. After that follow the bolt line and then up and left after the third bolt....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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