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Harry Potter Wand

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Der Stein der Weisen 
Dr. Snape 
Du weißt schon wer 
Onkel Vernon 
Tante Petunia 

Harry Potter Wand 

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Location: 49.8507, 11.3302 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jul 23, 2013
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A nice view of nearly the whole crag. This climber...


Shady north-facing crag with lots of well-protected routes. The crag seeps forever, making several of the routes unclimbable throughout most of the year. Wait for long dry periods. It had snowed/rained a lot throughout the Winter/Spring in 2013 and the crag was still seeping in July even after 3 weeks of no rain!
There are several short, powerful routes on the far left, then it eases into less powerful and slightly longer, then there are some more hard routes which follow small holds, and finally longer routes on the far right.
You should be able to climb 5.11 to have a nice day here, as there are only 5 routes under 5.11a. There are 20 routes total, maxing out at 5.13a.

Getting There 

From Waischenfeld, drive in the direction of Nankendorf. Where the road heads left to Breitenlesau, there's a parking area on the left right before the turn. Park here and cross the road that goes to Breitenlesau. You'll see a forest service road headed up into the forest. Follow this for 140m to a little climber's trail on the left which leads straight to the crag.

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

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Fanny at the crux of Dr. Snape

Dr. Snape 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b  Europe : Germany : ... : Harry Potter Wand
An interesting beginning which requires good technique and some intuition leads to a show-stopper crux sequence on monos. Beautiful looking route on very clean rock. The crux is at the 3rd bolt....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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The 3 left-most routes, Duddley, Tante Petunia and Onkel Vernon.
BETA PHOTO: The 3 left-most routes, Duddley, Tante Petunia and...
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