|The Black Wall
|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 480'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA: ||M. Reeser & M. Smith 9/21/2013|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||224|
|Submitted By: ||dameeser on Sep 23, 2013|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
It's a simple question, doctor! Would you eat the...
This is a tips to fingers variation into the roof pitch of Cary Granite. Instead of traversing in from atop the 2nd pitch of Cary Granite, traverse in from the 2nd pitch of Good Evans.
P1: Climb the first pitch of Good Evans, but belay atop the flake. The belay takes hand-sized pieces (5.10d).
P2: Climb the first 10-15 feet of the Good Evans crack until you can traverse left on a good rail. Then climb the tips to fingers crack into the Cary Granite roof and beyond (5.11).
P3: Climb to the top (5.10).
Although you don't get to climb the great p2 corner of Cary Granite, you do get to climb a great finger crack! The traverse into the crack is no where near as hard as the traverse in from the original route.
Same as for Cary Granite, but add some RPs and finger-sized pieces for the variation.
Sep 27, 2013
Nice job, boys!!! This sounds pretty cool!