To my knowledge only one established crag exists in the Ketchikan vicinity but I rumor has it there are a few more. Drive out towards Harriet Hunt Lake and about two miles or so the crag will be on your left behind some trees roughly fifty or one hundred feet off the road. It has a trail to the top marked by some webbing or cordalette. One route has some ancient bolts but has brand new shiny anchors and the route next to it (slabby) has new bolts all the way up.
The crag is halfway between harriet hunt lake and the y that leads up to brown mountain. It is only fifty feet off the road on the left going out to harriet hunt lake
climb up the slab to the vertical section. stick to the left side of the wall on the aret. the crux is before the last ledge beneath the top. use a series of sidepulls with smeared feet so you dont barn-door off the face. reach for the final ledge and mantle. the top is one easy move away from therenote: if you use a top rope, you will have pro set up for the aret as well as the center route...[more]Browse More Classics in AK
That rock going to Harriett Hunt is not far up the road from the junction for Brown Mtn. It's on the left side of the road going up, behind a lot of new growth, have to watch for it. There was a turn out there to park. It is a nice little rock.
There was another rock near the end of the south road from Ketchikan, at the end of the pavement going to the old cannery at the end. Had some bolts on it. Can't remember how hard.
We did some ice climbing in a quarry on the North road. It was on the right side going north, about a mile past North Point Higgins Road turnoff. It was pretty ephemeral and thin, but there was a couple of WI4 things and a cool little WI3 slab. Maybe 30 feet high.
There are a few different routes here, all TR's for now, as it was bolted back in the 90's by a guy I know in Mtn rescue. Climbers right is a large bolted low angle slab that's an easy lead or solo. The bolts look better there and I've seen some falls taken on them. The crag is far from spectacular, but good for Ketchikan standards and something to stay in shape. As for the rock at the south end of the road, it's really short and very easy. I've lead it and set up a TR off a tree for some people, but those bolts look pretty shoddy as well. There are a few other boulders around, but everything needs plenty of cleaning and of course is constantly wet. A lot of alpine boulders of decent quality around Dude mt. and en route from Deer Mt. to Silvis Lakes, not the place to get injured however. We're always looking for new projects and I will post whatever I find this summer.