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Saddle Rocks - Skirt (West Face)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dial 911 T 
Do Rein Me T 
Gaucho Marx T 
Hanna Montana TR 
Harlequin T 
Harley Queen T 
If You see Crow, Bark! T 
Negro Girls T 
Orange Flake T 
Posse, The T 
R&R Revamped T 
Restoration & Repair (R&R) T 
Right On T 
Santa Cruz T 
Silver Spur T 
Six Shooter T 
Walk on the Wild Side T 
Where Have all the Cowboys Gone T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Harlequin 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Wilson and Tobin Sorenson, November 1974
Page Views: 1,363
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Jan 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Harlequin (Dark...)

Description 

Begin by scrambling (class 4) up a low-angle right-facing corner about 75 Ft. right of the start of Right On, up to a big ledge. High Cost of Living, Cheap Way To Die, Lone Pine,and Rough Riders all start from this ledge.

Pitch 1:Walk right across this ledge to where it becomes more like a ramp, leading up and right and then blanking out. Continue right across a slab past 2 bolts (5.8) to a belay on a small ledge with 2 bolts. An alternative start is to climb the left-facing dihedral (5.7) that leads directly up to this same bolt-belay on top of pitch 1.

Pitch 2: Up an easy flake/crack to a bolt, then climb steep slab (5.10d R) to another bolt, then traverse right and up to a 2-bolt belay on a small ledge/block.

Pitch 3:
Lower-angled friction slab past 2 bolts (5.10b), then, a long, easy runnout to join Walk On The Wild Side at it's 2nd pitch.


Protection 

To 2 inches, bolts.



Photos of Harlequin Slideshow Add Photo
Harlequin
BETA PHOTO: Harlequin
Harlequin
BETA PHOTO: Harlequin
Mystery route to right of pitch 2 Harlequin and Harley Queen. . . Anybody know what it is?
BETA PHOTO: Mystery route to right of pitch 2 Harlequin and Ha...
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By Bob Gaines
Jan 13, 2007

At least one leader has broken an ankle as a result of the fall from the runout on the 2nd pitch.

By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Oct 18, 2009

The first time I attempted this was last February I think. It was bitter cold in the shade. I took a fall just before the P2 crux because my shoe rubber was too cold and stiff to smear. I came back to it in April and got the redpoint. Pitch 2 is sort of heads-up, but I don't think I'd give it an R rating. Pitch 3 however, is technically easier but also more runout and less secure in a gritty kind of way.

By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Feb 26, 2011

Anyone know what the route is that traverses right from the ledge atop pitch 1? It goes right two bolts and then up a few more. It was a fun line!

By Randy
Feb 28, 2011

Anyone know what the route is that traverses right from the ledge atop pitch 1? It goes right two bolts and then up a few more. It was a fun line!

Harley Queen 5.10d and excellent.

By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Feb 28, 2011

Hmmm, thanks for the beta Randy but I don't think that's it. I've drawn a rough topo of it here: Mystery Harley Route

This route traversed way right right past the diagonal crack from the belay ledge and then past two decently spaced bolts before going up. We saw the bolts for Harlequin and Harley Queen, but for some reason elected to go this way. We thought the climbing felt about 5.10a, but I seem to have trouble guessing grades on slab routes, and I'd believe anything from 5.9 to 5.10b.

My friend and I forgot our guidebooks and decided to just go have an adventure on a mystery slab route out there. Turns out that it really is a mystery as I can't find referrence to the route on the internet or in the guidebook (granted it's an older guide). It was a fun route and I'd like to figure out what it was.

Thanks,
Cory

By Bob Gaines
Mar 1, 2011

Hi Cory:

There are two routes between Harlequin and Walk On the Wild Side.

They actually both start from the very bottom of the slab. The route on the left has 7 bolts and goes up to the anchor at the top of Harlequin's second pitch. I don't know the name of this one, but I'd rate it 5.10c.

The route just to the right has 9 bolts up to a separate 2-bolt anchor. I'd rate this pitch 5.10b. It continues up for a second pitch. I believe this route is named "Dial 911", first ascent by Charles Cole and Troy Mayr. There is a bolt on the big ledge at the base so you can lower/rappel down into a chasm to start.

Looking at your topo I'm guessing you crossed over the left route onto Dial 911 and finished up that route.

What would you rate that second pitch?

By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 1, 2011

The climb left of Dial 911 is the Cole-Anderson Route (5.10a).

By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Mar 2, 2011

Thanks for the beta! The climb we did definitely went to a separate anchor from harlequin, so it sounds like we traversed into "dial 911" the crux seemed to be at the end of the traverse, getting to the second bolt, maybe 5.10a or b? Then it was still sustained for a few bolts up to the anchor. The third pitch was steeper but a tad easier due to some features, the moves passing he first bolt were really fun. We actually did a very easy 4th pitch as well.

Cheers,
Cory