Harlequin 

At least one leader has broken an ankle as a result of the fall from the runout on the 2nd pitch.

The first time I attempted this was last February I think. It was bitter cold in the shade. I took a fall just before the P2 crux because my shoe rubber was too cold and stiff to smear. I came back to it in April and got the redpoint. Pitch 2 is sort of heads-up, but I don't think I'd give it an R rating. Pitch 3 however, is technically easier but also more runout and less secure in a gritty kind of way.

Anyone know what the route is that traverses right from the ledge atop pitch 1? It goes right two bolts and then up a few more. It was a fun line!

Anyone know what the route is that traverses right from the ledge atop pitch 1? It goes right two bolts and then up a few more. It was a fun line!

Harley Queen 5.10d and excellent.

Hmmm, thanks for the beta Randy but I don't think that's it. I've drawn a rough topo of it here: Mystery Harley Route

This route traversed way right right past the diagonal crack from the belay ledge and then past two decently spaced bolts before going up. We saw the bolts for Harlequin and Harley Queen, but for some reason elected to go this way. We thought the climbing felt about 5.10a, but I seem to have trouble guessing grades on slab routes, and I'd believe anything from 5.9 to 5.10b.

My friend and I forgot our guidebooks and decided to just go have an adventure on a mystery slab route out there. Turns out that it really is a mystery as I can't find referrence to the route on the internet or in the guidebook (granted it's an older guide). It was a fun route and I'd like to figure out what it was.

Thanks,
Cory

Hi Cory:

There are two routes between Harlequin and Walk On the Wild Side.

They actually both start from the very bottom of the slab. The route on the left has 7 bolts and goes up to the anchor at the top of Harlequin's second pitch. I don't know the name of this one, but I'd rate it 5.10c.

The route just to the right has 9 bolts up to a separate 2-bolt anchor. I'd rate this pitch 5.10b. It continues up for a second pitch. I believe this route is named "Dial 911", first ascent by Charles Cole and Troy Mayr. There is a bolt on the big ledge at the base so you can lower/rappel down into a chasm to start.

Looking at your topo I'm guessing you crossed over the left route onto Dial 911 and finished up that route.

What would you rate that second pitch?

The climb left of Dial 911 is the Cole-Anderson Route (5.10a).

Thanks for the beta! The climb we did definitely went to a separate anchor from harlequin, so it sounds like we traversed into "dial 911" the crux seemed to be at the end of the traverse, getting to the second bolt, maybe 5.10a or b? Then it was still sustained for a few bolts up to the anchor. The third pitch was steeper but a tad easier due to some features, the moves passing he first bolt were really fun. We actually did a very easy 4th pitch as well.

Cheers,
Cory