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West Face
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411 Southwest 
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Burning Down the House 
Buster Cattlefield 
California Dreaming 
Carl's Face 
Carol's Crack 
Dead Point 
Deadwood Express 
Deli Express 
Digital Extraction 
Double Feature 
El Matador 
Harkness variation 
Jerry's Kids 
La Vaca Solitaria 
Lack of Enthusiasm 
Livin' the Dream 
Man Without a Planet 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) 
McCarthy West Face/Hong 
Mr. Clean 
Mystery Express 
No Holds for Bonzo 
One Way Sunset 
Park Politics 
Some Like it Hot 
Spank The Monkey 
Steal Away 
Tulgey Wood 
Up In Smoke 
Way Layed 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) 

Harkness variation 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c A2+ PG13

Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 550', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c A2+ [details]
FA: Chris Harkness (June '05)
New Route: Yes
Season: summer
Page Views: 499
Submitted By: chris harkness on Jul 12, 2008
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Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>


This is the huge left-facing dihedral on the right side of the west face, clearly visible from the parking lot. Begin by climbing "Conquistador" to "Abject Cathexis", a crack system on the right side of the massive left facing dihedral.

I soloed this in June '05 and removed what appeared to be the anchor at the high point for the FA party of Abject Cathexis (A3). I'm not sure why they decided to bail at this point, but the route continues up through the obvious crack system that eventually deteriorates into the typical choss found at the top of all routes. Some loose rock, but otherwise a fun route. I could see this route possibly going hammerless; maybe even free.


right side of west face


Standard aid rack to #4, double set of small nuts, knifeblades, lost arrows, sawed off (or tied off) angles, birdbeaks.

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