Harkness variation
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British A2+ PG13
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, Aid, 550 ft (167 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Chris Harkness (June '05) |
Page Views: | 1,838 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | chris harkness on Jul 11, 2008 |
Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
This is the huge left-facing dihedral on the right side of the west face, clearly visible from the parking lot. Begin by climbing "Conquistador" to "Abject Cathexis", a crack system on the right side of the massive left facing dihedral.
I soloed this in June '05 and removed what appeared to be the anchor at the high point for the FA party of Abject Cathexis (A3). I'm not sure why they decided to bail at this point, but the route continues up through the obvious crack system that eventually deteriorates into the typical choss found at the top of all routes. Some loose rock, but otherwise a fun route. I could see this route possibly going hammerless; maybe even free.
I soloed this in June '05 and removed what appeared to be the anchor at the high point for the FA party of Abject Cathexis (A3). I'm not sure why they decided to bail at this point, but the route continues up through the obvious crack system that eventually deteriorates into the typical choss found at the top of all routes. Some loose rock, but otherwise a fun route. I could see this route possibly going hammerless; maybe even free.
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