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 ADVANCED
West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
411 Southwest T 
A Bridge Too Far T 
Astro Glide S 
Avalon T 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 
Bloodguard T 
Blotter is my Spotter T 
Brokedown Palace T 
Burning Down the House T 
Buster Cattlefield T 
California Dreaming T 
Carl's Face S 
Carol's Crack T 
Dead Point T 
Deadwood Express 
Deli Express T 
Digital Extraction T 
Double Feature T 
El Matador T 
Fractal T 
Harkness variation T 
Heatwave 
Jerry's Kids T 
La Vaca Solitaria T 
Lack of Enthusiasm S 
Livin' the Dream T 
Man Without a Planet T 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 
Mr. Clean T 
Mystery Express S 
No Holds for Bonzo T 
One Way Sunset T 
Park Politics T 
Scottfree T 
Some Like it Hot T 
Spank The Monkey T 
Steal Away S 
Tulgey Wood T 
Up In Smoke T 
Way Layed T 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 

Harkness variation 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A2+ PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 550', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A2+ [details]
FA: Chris Harkness (June '05)
New Route: Yes
Season: summer
Page Views: 560
Submitted By: chris harkness on Jul 12, 2008

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Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the huge left-facing dihedral on the right side of the west face, clearly visible from the parking lot. Begin by climbing "Conquistador" to "Abject Cathexis", a crack system on the right side of the massive left facing dihedral.

I soloed this in June '05 and removed what appeared to be the anchor at the high point for the FA party of Abject Cathexis (A3). I'm not sure why they decided to bail at this point, but the route continues up through the obvious crack system that eventually deteriorates into the typical choss found at the top of all routes. Some loose rock, but otherwise a fun route. I could see this route possibly going hammerless; maybe even free.

Location 

right side of west face

Protection 

Standard aid rack to #4, double set of small nuts, knifeblades, lost arrows, sawed off (or tied off) angles, birdbeaks.


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