Start from a two finger pin scar and a flared three finger tips sidepull with horrible, glassy feet and crank a looong reach to a better jam; once past the crux the climbing eases to about 5.9 in difficulty. Although listed as a toprope in various guidebooks, it could easily be led or even soloed as the difficulties are past once you're about 15' off the ground.Orignally an aid climb using pins (one of the reasons it goes free) it still provides fun, clean aid practice if so desired.Th...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
Bolts are conveniently located on top for easy top-roping. This climb has got to be one of the best at Mt. Rubidoux, although it sees little action. The opening moves are very powerful lock-offs on pin scars with very poor feet--similar opening to Hear My Train A Comin' at Mt. Woodson. It stays fairly sustained for about 15 feet, with pretty poor feet the whole way. I'm guessing a lot of 5.13 gym/sport climbers could easily get schooled on this thing. It has been flashed at least a couple of times in the 1980s by some Woodson locals. It is also somewhat popular as a practice aid climb (use clean gear!).
I have to disagree with the reference to IHMT having poor feet in the first fifteen feet of climbing. Marginal finger jams yes but feet are key here and are quite positive considering the overhanging nature of that part of the route.