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Hardware...

Original Post
Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,960

We've got a lot of new exciting sport climbs being developed in CT... and us developers have spend thousands of dollars and we still have dozens upon dozens of routes to equip.

We've donated our time and money and while we have plenty of time left, a lot of us are starting to run low on funds. There are several of us that are looking for other climbers who might be interested in contributing funds to help expedite the new development of our crags. We are looking to place sustainable, bomber stainless steel equipment and its not cheap.

We have the stoke, we're making the time, but we could use help with funds. As an example, I've got 50 new bolts at home but, I can't afford order hangers for another month so I figured it can't hurt to throw it out there... will the host of new routes sit undeveloped and un-climbed for another month/season or are there any climbers in our area interested in helping out?

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Don't rush it. there is no real hurry. be carefull of who you invite to your party. no telling what a project stealing, tree cutting, retro bolting,squeeze job hack, dog bringing pain in the butt they may turn out to be.... savor each and every one of those FA's If you slam them all out right now what will you do next year or the year after that.. maybe even leave a few for the next generation...

try Climb tech or rapbolting.com for hangers. Do Not use rawl Power wedge for rock climbing. they are rated for concrete not stone and have a habbit of the collar popping off the cone and the whole thing loosening up. The cone angle is too steep. a better cheap alternative is red head WW-3830 shallower angle on the cone and rated for concrete and stone.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

that photo on the rapbolting site is a perfect comparesion. see the difference in the angle of the cone on the rawle power wedge VS the hilti kwick Bolt. the hiltis are awsome BTW but pricy for a wedge bolt.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,960
Nick Goldsmith wrote:Don't rush it. there is no real hurry. be carefull of who you invite to your party. no telling what a project stealing, tree cutting, retro bolting,squeeze job hack, dog bringing pain in the butt they may turn out to be.... savor each and every one of those FA's If you slam them all out right now what will you do next year or the year after that.. maybe even leave a few for the next generation... try Climb tech or rapbolting.com for hangers. Do Not use rawl Power wedge for rock climbing. they are rated for concrete not stone and have a habbit of the collar popping off the cone and the whole thing loosening up. The cone angle is too steep. a better cheap alternative is red head WW-3830 shallower angle on the cone and rated for concrete and stone.
Thanks Nick for the advice. We are using best practices/replaceable hardware and this is for areas that need motivated climbers to make it really make them shine. For instance a new 5.13 route went up yesterday in a major metropolitan city in CT that likely compares to any other classic hard arete climb in New England. That wouldn't have happened without sharing and besides I've spent years at some of these cliffs and have dozens of them to develop, so it would be nice to have some company. And none of the cliffs have historical ascents so they're all FAs from our research (and amount of choss we pull down).
divnamite · · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 90

Can you post where the new sports crag is in CT? Pics? I don't mind donating some money or hangers if the routes are nice, but if it's in a choss pile, then it's probably not worth the effort.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,960

PM'd, we have determined it is worth the effort.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

We do a rebolt thing every year here at Penitente. I'm thinking of a jumpstarter or similar next year ????

Comment s???

I mean 200 people giving $5-10 each is a lot of bolts..even if they are Fixe!

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,960
john strand wrote:We do a rebolt thing every year here at Penitente. I'm thinking of a jumpstarter or similar next year ???? Comment s??? I mean 200 people giving $5-10 each is a lot of bolts..even if they are Fixe!
That was the thought... I started a kickstarter for us in CT but I can't seem to get it finalized due to some Amazon Payment linking issue. I am a little hesitant though as your comment suggests you are as well...
Josh Villeneuve · · Granby, CT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 1,814

Ive got some gear to donate Mo, it's been sitting around for the past two seasons so I doubt ill ever get around to using it.

Jason Hayden · · North Clarendon, VT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 9,585

don't do kickstarter - do indiegogo - more flexibility and if you don't make the goal you still get what you raised to buy as much hardware as you can.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,960
freezeus wrote:don't do kickstarter - do indiegogo - more flexibility and if you don't make the goal you still get what you raised to buy as much hardware as you can.
Ah... great suggestion! Thanks... that's huge.

Josh... thanks man! Let me know when ur in SW CT or if u wanna come down for a tour sometime. We got some hard stuff for you to test your feats of strength! Been back to Bald Rock or are you hammer the good in the NW/Mass?
Josh Villeneuve · · Granby, CT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 1,814
Morgan Patterson wrote: Ah... great suggestion! Thanks... that's huge. Josh... thanks man! Let me know when ur in SW CT or if u wanna come down for a tour sometime. We got some hard stuff for you to test your feats of strength! Been back to Bald Rock or are you hammer the good in the NW/Mass?
I stopped climbing for 4 months or so...but I've been getting back into it. Still spending most of my time in Western Mass but I would be down to check out some potential Double digit bouldaahs or Bouldery rooooots
petzl logic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 730

Have time to donate if you'd like a hand in November.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,960
ml242 wrote:Have time to donate if you'd like a hand in November.
Hey Thanks! Ya we'll be out and about this Nov. and I know of at least one area that needs lots of poison ivy pulled, blocks trundled, and routes cleaned! Thanks again for posting up, be in touch!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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