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Hardly Wallbanger 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bruce Lella, Marty Lewis, & Fred Berman - November, 1992
Page Views: 3,227
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (105)
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BETA PHOTO: Nora Belays Tim on Hardly Wallbanger.

Description 

On the main face of the Pub Wall there are three or four lines. This one climbs the face just right of the wide crack past a couple bolts to a rest ledge. From here follow the thin crack and face up the slightly overhanging wall to an anchor.

Protection 

15 draws or so. Originally led on natural gear.


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By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 30, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A Gorge classic with sustained climbing along a bolted crack system, which means those with crack technique may find this easier than those without. The guidebook notes this as the "steepest 10c in the Gorge".
By Tom Helvie
From: Bishop, CA
Dec 19, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Polished, buffed, slippery, but...it's damn fun climbing. Great jug hauling with a few jams and locks thrown in. I would give it 4 stars if it weren't so buffed out. I guess the overuse is a testament to how good the climb is?
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
May 29, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Nice climb. The crack offers really good positive laybacks almost all the way up.
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Nov 9, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I don't want to alarm anyone, but I have heard of a least one occurrence of a rattle snake found 2/3 of the way up this climb, casually chillin' avoiding the heat in July.
By Jonathan Howland
Apr 19, 2009

"15 draws or so"? Try 9 -- and slings or something for the substantial anchors if someone else is cleaning (esp. if your whole group is going to seige it).
One of HW's distinctive features is the bolts themselves -- huge hooks. These guys weren't messing around, rattlesnakes or no.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
May 28, 2011

awesome route! I mean, really awesome! cool moves. you can do it all with finger locks or all with jugs, or any combination of the two... it's still steep and fun!
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Mar 31, 2014

Didn't really think this route was all that it's cracked up to be. Sharp and kind of loose. Definitely a lot of steep, juggy climbing, but the whole gorge is full of steep, juggy climbing.
By rickziegler
Jan 24, 2015

I think this is a great climb. But there are several loose blocks on the upper half of the route. Climbers and belayers be careful.
Also, looks like the old hangers have been replaced with new ASCA bolts!
By Pavel Burov
May 26, 2015

As on May 25, 2015 there are some loose blocks on the upper parts of the climb. Gently check every and any block before grabbing it.
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