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Hardcore Jollies 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: D. Lutes, H. Loeffler, D. Whelan, 1992
Season: any
Page Views: 779
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Andy Hansen works Hardcore Jollies. March 2011

Description 

A 2-star climb that can be a 4-star classic if continued directly past the anchors and through L'ile Au Ciel for a 100' pitch. THe climb was originally rated 5.12a, but I doubt it is really that hard. 11d might also be generous.

Locate this climb just right of Headstone Surfer and head up past 5 clips on crimps and smaller pockets to a ledge and anchors- put a longer runner on the anchors and continue into L'ile Au Ciel for 7 more clips plus anchors.


Location 

Just right of the Headstone Surfer dihedral there is a slightly overhanging, bolted face leading up to a ledge (Hardcore Jollies) and from that ledge a wild overhanging prow with a wide scoop up it's center, perforated by pockets (L'ile Au Ciel).


Protection 

5 bolts for H.J. plus the anchors, or better yet, 5 for H.J., one longer sling for the anchor, and 7 more draws for L.A.C. plus a few for the anchors on that.
You need a 60M rope to lower off to the ground, but you can lower to the anchors on the ledge with a 50M and belay from there, then rap to the ground.



Photos of Hardcore Jollies Slideshow Add Photo
Tony Bubb Leads Hardcore Jollies. L'ile Au Ciel is the overhanging prow above. Photo by Mindy Huddleston, Circa 1994
Tony Bubb Leads Hardcore Jollies. L'ile Au Ciel is...
Comments on Hardcore Jollies Add Comment
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 14, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Fun interesting moves.... i thought 12a (v4 crux) seemed right for me, i think it might be harder than that for shorter folk...

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 30, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

If you're any shorter than 5'10" or so, this thing is definitely .12 something. Reachy defined.

By BrianWS
Jan 31, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Felt like a legit 12- for the first few clips, but eases up considerably.