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Tony Bubb Leads Hardcore Jollies. L'ile Au Ciel is...
A 2-star climb that can be a 4-star classic if continued directly past the anchors and through L'ile Au Ciel for a 100' pitch. THe climb was originally rated 5.12a, but I doubt it is really that hard. 11d might also be generous.
Locate this climb just right of Headstone Surfer and head up past 5 clips on crimps and smaller pockets to a ledge and anchors- put a longer runner on the anchors and continue into L'ile Au Ciel for 7 more clips plus anchors.
Just right of the Headstone Surfer dihedral there is a slightly overhanging, bolted face leading up to a ledge (Hardcore Jollies) and from that ledge a wild overhanging prow with a wide scoop up it's center, perforated by pockets (L'ile Au Ciel).
5 bolts for H.J. plus the anchors, or better yet, 5 for H.J., one longer sling for the anchor, and 7 more draws for L.A.C. plus a few for the anchors on that.
You need a 60M rope to lower off to the ground, but you can lower to the anchors on the ledge with a 50M and belay from there, then rap to the ground.
Andy Hansen works Hardcore Jollies. March 2011
|Comments on Hardcore Jollies
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 14, 2010
Fun interesting moves.... i thought 12a (v4 crux) seemed right for me, i think it might be harder than that for shorter folk...
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 30, 2011
If you're any shorter than 5'10" or so, this thing is definitely .12 something. Reachy defined.
Jan 31, 2013
Felt like a legit 12- for the first few clips, but eases up considerably.