Hardcore Jollies  5.11d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  D. Lutes, H. Loeffler, D. Whelan, 1992 Season:  any Submitted By:  Tony B on Oct 4, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Tony Bubb Leads Hardcore Jollies. L'ile Au Ciel is...

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Description 

A 2-star climb that can be a 4-star classic if continued directly past the anchors and through L'ile Au Ciel for a 100' pitch. THe climb was originally rated 5.12a, but I doubt it is really that hard. 11d might also be generous.

Locate this climb just right of Headstone Surfer and head up past 5 clips on crimps and smaller pockets to a ledge and anchors- put a longer runner on the anchors and continue into L'ile Au Ciel for 7 more clips plus anchors.

Location 

Just right of the Headstone Surfer dihedral there is a slightly overhanging, bolted face leading up to a ledge (Hardcore Jollies) and from that ledge a wild overhanging prow with a wide scoop up it's center, perforated by pockets (L'ile Au Ciel).

Protection 

5 bolts for H.J. plus the anchors, or better yet, 5 for H.J., one longer sling for the anchor, and 7 more draws for L.A.C. plus a few for the anchors on that.
You need a 60M rope to lower off to the ground, but you can lower to the anchors on the ledge with a 50M and belay from there, then rap to the ground.

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Andy Hansen works Hardcore Jollies. March 2011