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Start from rocky ledge and climb left-facing dihedral with pale SMC hangers. (New style and safe) Climb past third or fourth bolt before traversing right with good gear to the chimney. If you traverse at the bolt you will have a harder but well protected bulge to surmount.
Light rack up to hand sized cams.
|By Jon Ruland|
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 9, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
pro seemed kinda tricky to me (?)
From: Tucson, Az
Dec 17, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
The first right-slanting crack on the upper face is shallow and uneven, probably a few millimeters difference between an OK placement and a crap one that will walk and tip out w the slightest nudge from the rope.
Also, the moves between that first crack and the next one further up (ie bypassing the chimney and staying on the face) are harder than 5.9, more like 9+/10-.
Would not recommend this for beginning trad leaders unless 9+/10- is fairly easy for them.
|By Alex McIntyre|
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 21, 2011
A friend and I were out at the Sun Spots today and we didn't really know what any of the climbs were besides English Breakfast Crack, so we saw this dihedral and just decided to go for it. Did it mostly on gear (clipped 2 or 3 bolts) but we didn't traverse right as described, instead continuing up the OW groove past some funky rock and doing the finish of what I now know is Sunny Side Up. This was really fun and pretty well protected. Takes TONS of stoppers; I don't remember ever placing this many bomber stoppers on a single pitch before. If done this way, make sure to sling pieces below the roof long so you don't get bummer rope drag for the exciting (if done on gear) finish. What part of each route I did was great fun and I would recommend to anyone.