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With the crux right off the ground and a much easier slab above, this is defintitely not a destination climb, but fun enough, and a good approach for Left Out. Good cams below the roof, a good RP or equivalent in a horizontal slot above the roof, and optional microcams above the roof provide good pro. The crux move was harder than I expected. The good handholds are just above the lip, with worse holds above. You have to rock onto a small knob at the lip with your hands low. After that it's fun pockety slab climbing, mostly very easy with a couple of harder moves, 5.6 or so. The climb ends at the big ledge halfway up the west face. From here there are various choices including West Overhang, the top pitch of Lemmings, Left Out, or, by following the ledge down around onto the south side, Metamorphosis or Disguise.
Location: Just uphill from the SW corner of Wind Tower on the west side. Approach from the streamside trail. You will see a roof running uphill about 15 feet off the ground. Start below the left edge of the roof. Lemmings starts in the somewhat bushy crack that skirts the roof on the left. Angle right a bit and climb the roof at the obvious hold above the lip.
For the crux: micro and small cams to 0.75 Camalot plus medium brass nut or equivalent. For the easier slab above, a light set of nuts and single or double cams to #3 Camalot, depending on how far you want to run it out.
Mike Robinson before the crux.
Run Out on the Slab
Super fun, easy climbing after the initial overhan...
Over the roof and ready to cruise.
|By Brent Roaten|
From: Anchorage, AK
May 30, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Fun one move wonder pulling over the lip. The gear is actually very good below the roof and a bomber #7 stopper can be slotted sideways at the lip. Even on heavy traffic days, I have never seen anyone on this route and it is an excellent approach to access the ledge above for metamorphosis, left out, etc.