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Hard Trad Climbs in The Sun
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Nov 12, 2012
What's up resident Red Rocks climbing experts. I am headed to RR for Thanksgiving and this will be my 5th or 6th trip. Each year I struggle with finding trad climbs in the Sun that are of the hard 5.10/5.11 range. Looking for recommendations and info. Thanks for the help jered
Joined Sep 4, 2009
1 points
Nov 12, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Dow Williams, 2011
This is my index page (sorted north to south, grade and # of pitches listed) of climbs I have personally climbed at Red Rock. Below are in the grade range you are looking for that are my favorites with full sun...Good luck with your climbing.

Orange Clonus, 5.10d
Brass Balls, 5.10d
Spectrum, 5.11a
Ten Minute Shift, 5.11b
Mayday Malefactor, 5.10c
Sundog, 5.10a
Solar Flare, 5.10c
Mountain Beast, 5.11a
Eagle Dance, 5.10c
Western Swing, 5.10b
Dow Williams
From St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB
Joined Mar 13, 2006
226 points
Nov 12, 2012
I've run into the same conundrum a couple of times out there and realized/learned along the way that shadier aspects hold the varnish longer/erode through to the yellow choss below more slowly than sunny faces. While I'm sure there are harder lines (assuming hard=5.11 and up) on the yellow stuff, there certainly aren't as many of them and what there are typically aren't as fun. The only exception to this is eagle wall, which you likely already know about.

Black Velvet Canyon-very shady, lots of varnish, lots of good, harder climbing.
Rainbow wall-ditto.
Challenger wall-ditto.
Cloud tower-also shady.
Definitely something of a trend.
Max Tepfer
From Bend, OR
Joined Oct 23, 2007
1,628 points
Nov 12, 2012
Dow has a good list.

Levitation is quite nice, def one of my favorites. Eagle Dance was only okay- although the first pitch is awesome.
Mountain Beast is okay, but Rainbow Buttress is much better.

Red Zinger is a good end of day route after something in Oak Creek.

Spectrum is awesome.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,390 points
Nov 13, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Bunny pancake
I wanted to piggyback on this thread if I may :). I have a similar question. I am landing at 8am on Saturday. Prolly wont be able to start climbing until 10 or 11. I am doing LEvi 29 on Sunday.

What is a good long multi-pitch that I can do in that time frame? That would be a nice warm up for Levi.

Also, can Epi be rapped? Is that an acceptable way to descend?

Mike McKinnon
From Golden, CO
Joined Aug 27, 2003
122 points
Nov 13, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool snow formation at the base.
The Monument (Handbone,Lizard Locks, etc)

Mushroom People

Out of Control gets afternoon sun.

Red Zinger gets afternoon sun.

@Mike - that only gives you about 6 hours of daylight. It's pretty much pitch black by 5 pm now. If it were me, I'd just go cragging for the day.

You can rap Epinephrine from the second to last pitch, but you need to bring 2 ropes for that. At that point it's probably just easier to top out and walk down.
From Las Vegas
Joined Mar 12, 2006
1,476 points
Nov 13, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Dow Williams, 2011
yes, you can rap Levitation and that is acceptable and the quickest descent. Because it is mostly a sport climb, Sunday will prob see other traffic on it if the weather is decent. Most who get on a popular bolted route are used to folks rapping over them. No worries.

Eagle Dance or Mountain Beast can be climbed in half a day (if you are competent and efficient at the grade) and then just stash your gear.

If not the athletic type...might be best to climb Beulah's Book to Arch Enemy to Sunflower or some other combination on Solar Slab so you can pick your end point and again, stash your packs up canyon a bit.
Dow Williams
From St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB
Joined Mar 13, 2006
226 points
Nov 13, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Pano of Choas in the P2 crux. Undercling-high-step...
Do Next Century, to Out of Control, to something on the Brass Wall. Great sunny outing. Next Century is one of my personal favorites. The 2nd pitch is phenomenal. TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Joined Jun 2, 2009
2,671 points
Nov 14, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: My most adventurous memory
Sport Wanker Extraordinaire .11d Matt Kuehl
From red rock
Joined Nov 29, 2010
1,400 points

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