Hard to Swallow  5.10

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Asher Sussman, JMw 4/2011 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  JMayhew on Dec 8, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: 1st pitch roof
(photo by A.S.)

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Description 

Each pitch has some junky spots you need to avoid and there are a few spots layered with decades of swallow droppings. Other than that, it's a great route! Definitely some fun, steep sections with great exposure.

Location 

Approach as for the “Kor Route” then traverse right and up into the “Hiker’s Gully.” About halfway from the base of the Kor to the top of the gully look for a big, white-stained, right-facing corner on the upper half of the wall. To the right of this corner is a triangular roof with another smaller triangular roof just above, next to a small oak tree. The climb follows cracks past the right sides of both overhangs. The top of pitch 2 is just left of the tree.

As you hike up the gully, look for a small roof about 20’ up with a white stain underneath and a crack thru its left side. Stay in the main gully till even with the base, (best to leave packs here,) then traverse left into the smaller, steeper gully to the base.


1. Steepening crack thru left side of small roof, then up to ledge. Step right to small, ramping, right-facing corner with black stain. Wander up to access next main ledge up and right. Belay at base of next main corner. (130’, 5.10)

2. Climb corner then exit right onto face before getting to base of white corner, passing 2 bolts into cracks that lead past right sides of both overhangs. Belay just left of small oak tree at a bolt backed up by gear. (120’, 5.9)

3. Continue up corner a short ways until you can exit left onto face with a pedestal that is more solid than it looks. Up and left past 2 bolts then up onto large, slanting ledge with some loose dirt/rocks. Tip-toe to the right end and continue up past 1 more bolt to top. (100’, 5.7+)

Descent: Hike right and descend Hiker’s Gully to gear.

Protection 

We used lots of stoppers, doubles thru #3, triples on .75 and #1 camalots, and a #4. (And that was just on the first 30 feet!)

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up pitch 2 (photo by A.S.)	BETA PHOTO: H 2 S belays	BETA PHOTO: working the p1 crack