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The Gatehouse
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Dead Man Balking T 
Hard Time T,S 
Parole Bored T 

Hard Time 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Jim Scott, Virgil Davis
Page Views: 167
Submitted By: dcohn on Jan 11, 2009

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Description 

Fun half-sport, half-trad route. The crux is protected pretty well by a bolt, but one of the placements after the crux is pretty pumpy. Once reaching the ledge, it is possible to go left for a few more moves to get to the anchors above Cool Tanned Luke, or right to the anchors above Deck Point Charlie.

Location 

The second route to the right of the chimney. You will see two bolts on it and a crack below the ledge.

Protection 

cams to #2 camalot, nuts, a few quickdraws There are chain anchors on top.


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