Hard Tellin' Not Knowing  5.12b PG13

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Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Bryan Haslam, Harrison Shull, Jack Childress Submitted By:  Bryan Haslam on Jan 21, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Originally named Sonic Buddha. Pitch one done by BH and JC in 1994. BH and HS completed the route in 1999.
Pitch 1. 5.10c. Great as a single pitch, can lead and lower off rap hangers. Excellent pro in the crack leads to delicate slab face climbing past two spaced out bolts to a steeper section of wall. Trust that the eyebrow in the crux is good and crank the crux, following good gear in eyebrows to the belay ledge. 80'
Pitch 2. 5.12b. "The Gentlemans 5.12". Seriously hard eyebrow climbing. Well protected. 60'
Pitch 3. 5.11a. Meander up eyebrows trending slightly left to a large flake below a belay. 3 bolts. 130'
Pitch 4. 5.11a. More of the same, climbing up and slightly right at a ramp. One bolt.150'
Pitch 5. Wander up to top. 150'

Location 

Located directly below the far left end of the massive roof line in the middle of the Hidden Wall, between Tarheels and Liquid Anal Crowbar. Starts on a 20' crack. Pitch one ends about 30' below the roof. Pitch 2 climbs past a small crescent crack to the corner of the roof then up. Pitches 3-5 wander up eyebrows to the top. At top, move right looking for a fixed rope on a tree above Liquid Anal Crowbar. Rap the LAC on doubled ropes. Otherwise, work your way off right to the descent gully, or down and left to rap over Anne Marie.

Protection 

Rack is heavy on finger sized units.
P1 Stoppers, tricams, TCU's.
P2 Yellow TCU X 2 and quickdraws
P3 Stoppers, tricams, double set of TCU's including #00-#2, with 4 X #1's, single units to 3/4"
P4 Same rack as for P3, but include Camalots through Red
P5 <1" pieces