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> Big Thompson Ca…
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> Ironing Board Slabs (…
Hard Luck and Bad Times
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Ironing Board Slabs (Upper & Lower Slabs)
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Area 51 T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Bee Line Highway S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Coal Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Code Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Double O Slab T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hair of the Dog, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hard Luck and Bad Times S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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La Facada Norte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Ned's Variation to Code Rainbow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Otherworld S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Roadside Traverse T V2 5+ |
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Short but Squeezed T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Short but Sweet T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Slipstream Dihedral T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ten Second High S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown Left (sorry Gillett) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Allen Simons |
| Page Views: | 707 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | allen simons on Oct 27, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Grip the right arete and edge up the face past 3 bolts (10+/11a) to a good stance. Start up the upper section, past 3 more bolts, crux at second bolt, (11a), but 10ish thru the entire upper section, finishing with a small roof bulge.
One could conceivably use junky holds on the right and left sides past the edges of the upper section of the rib, but that would be cheating now, wouldn't it? Seriously, I did not use them, but it would make the climb easier. As a side note, one can now climb Otherworld and Hard Luck and Bad Times, fourth class up 70 feet to the upper slab where one can climb Double O Slab or Slipstream Dihedral. From there, you can then top out on the very top of the ridge by climbing any one of multiple lines (many done a long time ago, names unknown). Short But Sweet and Short But Squeezed are two climbs up there that are listed in this guide. So, 4 rock pitches in a row, all raps done with a doubled single rope.
One could conceivably use junky holds on the right and left sides past the edges of the upper section of the rib, but that would be cheating now, wouldn't it? Seriously, I did not use them, but it would make the climb easier. As a side note, one can now climb Otherworld and Hard Luck and Bad Times, fourth class up 70 feet to the upper slab where one can climb Double O Slab or Slipstream Dihedral. From there, you can then top out on the very top of the ridge by climbing any one of multiple lines (many done a long time ago, names unknown). Short But Sweet and Short But Squeezed are two climbs up there that are listed in this guide. So, 4 rock pitches in a row, all raps done with a doubled single rope.
Location
Park in the paved pullout 0.6 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube on the south side of US Hwy 34. Same as for The Borg and Upper Slabs that contain Double O, Slipstream, Otherworld, etc. Hike west along the road half way back to the turn in the road, and 4th class up 30 feet. Continue up and east to the left side of the lower slabs. Access to the climb is by climbing Otherworld (5.10), or wander up loose 5.2-5.4 rock to the base of the climb. The start is 20 up and right of Otherworld.
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