|Type:||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Nathan Fisher on Mar 22, 2004|
|Comments on Hard Knocks||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Olympic Valley, CA
May 20, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|Good route to gain some height. Don't let the runout keep you away from doing this route, it isn't that bad. Personally I don't think the crux is 5.9, it feels much easier and is only one or two smear moves right at the bolt.|
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 16, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
|Not 5.9+ and not really R rated either. The runouts are much easier, and the bolt protects the hard moves well. Cool pitch.|
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 3, 2005
|Did this again today, and would agree that 5.9+ seems a little steep.|
From: Salt Lake City
Oct 15, 2011
My wife and I did this pitch today. Warning: bees have made a home in the crack just above the anchors for the start of this pitch. It would have otherwise made a good placement, but it's not really needed. Bees probably do this often, so it may be worth adding as beta, not a condition report.
Yeah, this is not 5.9+. The entire climb would be 5.5 if it weren't for the crux moves up the smeary section. I'd say maybe 5.7+. I slid off it twice, but the ledge saved me. Even with no ledge, the bolt would have stopped the fall.
Fun moves on this part, but the rest of the climb isn't very interesting.
By Tim Harper
Sep 26, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
The climbing is relatively easy, but yes, it's difficult to find gear placement. The one bolt on the way up is solid.
Because of the difficulty of placing anchors, a factor-2 fall is quite possible up to that point, and it's a good 50-60% up. Fortunately, the climbing is easy... but be careful out there kids.