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 ADVANCED
Lisa Falls Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Drag Queen T 
End Run T 
Flee Flicker S 
Fleeting Glimpse S 
Hard Knocks T,TR 
Lefty 
Lisa Falls (the ice climb) 
Lisa Falls Left T,TR 
Lisa Falls Right T 
Neurotica T 
Rodan S,TR 
Safety Blitz T 
Sweep Left S,TR 
Sweet Spot T,TR 
Under the Skirt and Clip The Bush S 
Where's Winky? T 

Hard Knocks 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 853
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 22, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: 5) Flee Flicker 6) Fleeting Glimpse 7) Lisa Fal...

Description 

This climbs the upper face to the right of the waterfalls. Start from the belay station at the ledge above Flee Flicker or Fleeting Glimpse. This then works around the roof that the anchors are on, and then pops over the small roof, at the base of the brown face with a bolt. Climb to the ledge and clip, make your touchy move and continue to the top.

Protection 

2 bolts at the top of the climb (Shared with Lisa Fall Tight Pitch 2). 1 draw for the only bolt, and some medium gear. I believe a # .75 camalot worked wonderful just below the face to the bolt. 2 1-rope rappels


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By philfell
From: Olympic Valley, CA
May 20, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good route to gain some height. Don't let the runout keep you away from doing this route, it isn't that bad. Personally I don't think the crux is 5.9, it feels much easier and is only one or two smear moves right at the bolt.
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 16, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Not 5.9+ and not really R rated either. The runouts are much easier, and the bolt protects the hard moves well. Cool pitch.
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 3, 2005

Did this again today, and would agree that 5.9+ seems a little steep.
By spencerparkin
From: Salt Lake City
Oct 15, 2011

My wife and I did this pitch today. Warning: bees have made a home in the crack just above the anchors for the start of this pitch. It would have otherwise made a good placement, but it's not really needed. Bees probably do this often, so it may be worth adding as beta, not a condition report.

Yeah, this is not 5.9+. The entire climb would be 5.5 if it weren't for the crux moves up the smeary section. I'd say maybe 5.7+. I slid off it twice, but the ledge saved me. Even with no ledge, the bolt would have stopped the fall.

Fun moves on this part, but the rest of the climb isn't very interesting.
By Tim Harper
Sep 26, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R

The climbing is relatively easy, but yes, it's difficult to find gear placement. The one bolt on the way up is solid.

Because of the difficulty of placing anchors, a factor-2 fall is quite possible up to that point, and it's a good 50-60% up. Fortunately, the climbing is easy... but be careful out there kids.
By Matt Steubing
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 20, 2014

Here's a GoPro perspective of lead climbing this fun little route. The video starts with me following Neurotica and Hard Knocks starts at 3:47 in the video.

youtu.be/0BDsikQSjaA