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Orifice Wall
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Flyer Starter S 
Gettin' Off The Porch S 
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Hard Day at The Orifice S 
Heel-A Monster S 
Hereiophobia T 
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In Search of Silence [Var] S 
Oedipus Complex S 
Orifice Politics S 
Unattended Consequences S 

Hard Day at The Orifice 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Ted Waldor 1996
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 11,752
Submitted By: WSnyder on Feb 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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It's a looong way down.

Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Follow the general directions given to get to The Fortress but don't go down the gully. Just as the trail starts down the east side of The Fortress follow the ledge around the left side and you will find a safety cable. This cable will lead to another cable that will guide you safely down to the climbs.

The Orifice is in the running for one of the mountains best sport climbs. This route has a huge exposure factor (laugh at your friends when they get needlessly scared), some great jug hauling and enough technical climbing to keep it interesting. A hard start leads to a large orifice which serves as a rest before the real climbing begins. Sign the guestbook while you rest in the hole. Figure out how to get out of the hole and then do the technical crux. Now jug haul for a ways and get ready for some final action before it mellows out for the finish. Follow the bolt line to the right near the top for the original (easier) finish or cut left (harder) for another letter grade worth of fun.

Protection 

Bolts, Chain anchors


Photos of Hard Day at The Orifice Slideshow Add Photo
Vince in a 5.13 that has seen no red-points since ...
Vince in a 5.13 that has seen no red-points since ...
Mikie Elias just out of the Orifice and into the c...
Mikie Elias just out of the Orifice and into the c...
The Hard Day king swing... at night! Smaller than ...
The Hard Day king swing... at night! Smaller than ...
EFR just after the Orifice.  It is July and 97 deg...
EFR just after the Orifice. It is July and 97 deg...
Matt Birch lowering off of Hard Day at the Orifice...
Matt Birch lowering off of Hard Day at the Orifice...
Ian on the big cross-through coming out of the Ori...
Ian on the big cross-through coming out of the Ori...
Never complains, not worried about falling, not a ...
Never complains, not worried about falling, not a ...
Some fine Team Take memorabilia long kept in the d...
Some fine Team Take memorabilia long kept in the d...
Climber exiting the orifice!
Climber exiting the orifice!
Yours truly at the redpoint crux.  This is one of ...
Yours truly at the redpoint crux. This is one of ...
Clayton deep in the Orifice.
Clayton deep in the Orifice.
Climber in the middle of the route.
Climber in the middle of the route.
Mikie battling for the onsight.
Mikie battling for the onsight.
Lowering off hard day.
Lowering off hard day.

Comments on Hard Day at The Orifice Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 25, 2014
By jbak
Feb 27, 2006

A strong contender for best pitch on Mt. Lemmon.
By WSnyder
Mar 10, 2006

For a thrill and a reward after you redpoint take the big swing. After cleaning the route, climb up on TR to the second bolt or higher and take the swing out over the canyon below. Mandatory at least once. Make sure your belayer doesn't lower you too soon so you don't hit the ledge when swinging back in.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 7, 2008

Let me apologize first to all of you that I have given beta to. It was not the best way to do it. The route is now only 11d, just kidding! Anyway, I used to do a kneebar to get out of the Orifice but today I watched a guy who is only 5.8 pull it off without coming out of the top of the hole. He made it look easy so I tried his beta. No need to be a contortionist any more. Really cool actually.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 8, 2008

Thanks, Eric and Ted, for this incredibly burly, fun, unique route. Thanks, too, to Vince, Josie, Pete, and Marie for yelling me through the final crux! Great fun!
By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 9, 2008

Hundal, you're getting too big fer yer britches...
By Red
From: Arizona
Sep 11, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Nice send Geir! I was on the south wall of the Fortres when you had your victory YELL! It could be heard for a mile I'm sure. You met me up there that day. (Luke) Good Job!
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 17, 2008

thanks red and jerry! it was awesome!
By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 16, 2009
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Why can't I give this one six stars? Such an incredible climb!
By Red
From: Arizona
Sep 21, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I finally got it on Saturday! 09-19-09 Amazing line!
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 27, 2009

SEND BABY WOOOOOO!!11ELEVENTY!11
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 30, 2009

nice job red!!!!!!!!!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 4, 2009

Way to go Red! It looked like you were close last time I saw you up there.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 20, 2009

HUGE congrats to Jon Ruland for his recent send on this classic climb!!!!! Jon gets the award for developing such strength so quickly this summer. Way to go Jon!!!!
By Red
From: Arizona
Oct 23, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Thanks Geir and Eric! Eric, I ended up sending it that last day I saw you up there. I told you all when you left that you were going to miss my send! lol Everyone had a great season at the Orifice wall this year! I look forward to it again next summer! For now it is Homestead season! See you all out there.
By RyanJames
Feb 24, 2010
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I didn't think rock climbing could be any better than this... until I got on Orifice Politics to the right.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 15, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I've been mulling over whether this route can be led on gear. I believe it might be possible.

Sling tooth (~2nd Bolt)
Cam in pocket (~4th Bolt)
Cam in flake (~6th Bolt)
Cam in flake undercling and/or nut in eye pocket (~8th bolt)
Cam and/or nut in deep crack (~9th bolt)
Nut from redpoint crux (~10th bolt)

The start is the most questionable part. The tooth might not be deep enough and a fall before the second piece might result in a ground fall. Still I think it might be possible.

Thoughts?
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 16, 2011

It would be bold for sure. I am not sure the flakes would be strong enough for those cams to catch a fall.
By JSchultz
Sep 19, 2011

John sent Hard Day after a few sessions of work for his hardest redpoint to date. Cruised it. Congrats John!
It sounds like he wants to do it on gear now...
By Tanner Mack
Aug 4, 2014

Such an amazing climb! So glad to check this off the list. Super good climbing,awesome crux, amazing climb love it!
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 25, 2014

Hard Day Direct (the left line of bolts at the finish) doesn't get a lot of traffic but is actually really good. Seems much harder than the OG finish in the chimney. Bring two draws and get on it!