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BETA PHOTO: Sorry about the bad photo. Will replace it if I g...
A vertical face that climbs a beautiful swath of crystals. There are several cruxes encountered throughout this route. Drilled on the lead with hooks. Southeast facing making for a great year round outing (morning sun & afternoon shade). A very sane route for the Needles and is steep enough for very clean falls. A great warmup or next tick.
The route starts on the south side of Paydirt Pinnacle. Scramble up the gully on the south side past the old root cellar. Belay on top of the the flake about 20' uphill from the root cellar.
Seven Modern 3/8" Bolts, Chain Anchor (first bolt is difficult for vertically challenged climbers to clip from the top of the flake).
|By Erik Tullberg|
From: Colorado Springs
Jun 22, 2008
I did the route today. What a fun route with a bit of overhang and a nice headwall toward the end. I was pumped out, but that's probably just my bad form - plenty of bomber foot and handholds; from below a few look small, but often there are finger pockets behind them. Handhold wise probably only a 5.8, but the overhang complicates things. It also helps to be taller on this route. I had to do a little toe hop to get one of the holds around the 3rd or 4th bolt (I'm 5'11). Very well protected.