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 ADVANCED
Dihedral Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Carlos T 
Coarse and Buggy T 
Couldn't Wait T 
Happy Happy, Joy Joy T 
How 'bout It? T 
Limp Wristed Faggot T 
Slabulous T 
Sowsuckle, The T 

Happy Happy, Joy Joy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Tom Michael, Stacey Bocks, Dave Dixon & Jeff, October 1992
Page Views: 563
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Jam the flake as it gradually widens into a liback (large cam helpful) then exit left into a scooped-out section on the south face and finish via a perfect 1 1/4" splitter in desert varnish.

This is an ideal warm-up route for it's neighbor and is a climb to seek out if wanting some practice on the dreaded 1 1/4" size. The rock is good, the moves varied and the pro more than adequate. Two stars out of five.

Location 

This is the striking right-facing flake just left of Coarse and Buggy...Ren and Stimpy fans rejoice!

Protection 

pro to 4"


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By Tradoholic
Jan 7, 2015

Fun enough, plenty of face holds around the upper crack.