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Love Shack Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agent Orange S 
Death Grip S 
Duck and Cover S 
Happy Death Coyote S 
Happy Entrails S 
Love Handles S 
Other Woman, The S 
Second Hand Emotion S 
Take That Space Coyote S 
Unsorted Routes:

Happy Entrails 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Chris Vandiver
Season: Spring - Fall (climbable most of the summer, too!)
Page Views: 1,022
Submitted By: Dave Wachter on Jul 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Description 

Of the two bolted routes in the Love Shack, this is the one on the left. Starts nearly horizontal, then continues steep/ pumpy through 3 bolts of sustained climbing. Interesting mix of holds (pinches, slopers, pockets), excellent rock. The last few moves ease off in difficulty, but the pump factor keeps things interesting to the chains.

Protection 

Four bolts and 2-chain anchor. Stick clip the high first bolt.


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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 13, 2008
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Great Route! Fun short and powerful. 4 stars just for the cool unique holds, the closest thing to tufas I have found in NM.
Usually graded 12d, but seems a bit easier.
By Williampenner
From: The 505
Jul 14, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

More like 12b. The funky anchors on the right route were recently replaced.
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 14, 2008
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Maybe the high humidity just made it feel like 12c, haha.

The anchors to the right route (Deathgrip) still looked pretty funky when I was on it Saturday. Short two link chains held in place by washers and a nut, on what looked to be smaller than 3/8" stud bolts. Many thanks if the anchors were upgraded yesterday.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 14, 2008

Great name!
By Williampenner
From: The 505
Jul 14, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I replaced them on Sunday. I did not have the right length of camouflage chain with me so at some point in the next few weeks I will replace the regular chain I left. There is now a new bolt above the old right bolt and equalized chains for easier rope pulling. The new anchor is consequently further right and does not put your rope in the stream when it drops. Funny how this climb went for years with no action and now everyone is on it.
By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Apr 13, 2010

Eric, The name came from the cow entrails floating in the river directly below the route when Chris was doing the first ascent. Someone had butchered a cow and left the guys there, as far as we could tell. I have photos of that mess. I'll try to post a few....