|107 page views|
BETA PHOTO: Red is the line without the intermediate belay. T...
This is a hard new technical slab climb that is fun if you're into tiny holds on technical faces. The crux section is short but will likely be quite challenging for the grade. This route is about the same grade as "ghouls just wanna have fun", but a little more sustained.
Start on the same flake as for Happy Campers but climb easy flakes up and left to a reachy bolt in the water streak. Step left and climb hard slab on small but positive edges past 2 more bolts to a stance. From here the climbing is easier, and passes a 4th bolt and some gear. Traverse up and right to the Happy Campers belay, or link into pitch 2. 5.11+
Move back left and climb easy terrain to the steep groove. Climb the groove/streak past 3 bolts and a small cam at the top to a 2 bolt belay. 5.10
Just left of Happy Campers
light rack. The placement above 4th bolt on P-1 takes a good offset cam (yellow/green alien I think) or maybe a small tricam/medium nut.