From the Top of the more popular climbs of the West side of Der Zinkle (60 feet up) you end on a ledge with a walk up. The rock has two additional west-facing features above. The feature to the North is an additional summit, a point of rock that is another 50-60 feet above. Ascend this via a wide crack on the West side, up through a few blocks, then through a slab and up to a fingercrack which slants up and right though an impressive bulge (crux) before pulling the last overhang to the summit (10a). This route has some great moves and is reasonably protected, but is simply too short to get a rave review.
To descend, rap from a set of fixed anchors down the West side, back to the top of the rest of the routes and walk off to the North.
While climbing and rapping, keep the belay and rope as far north of the base as possible, stacking it and sitting on the rock perch to avoid a large patch of Poison Ivy that is just south of this tower.
A few large cams, a few small nuts and a few TCUs. I placed a #3 Camalot, a #3 BD stopper, and one each 0.5 and 0.75" cam.
Unknown climber toproping Happy Ending from Red De...
|By Ben Burnett|
Nov 7, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
After rapping from the summit, we TRed the southwest face of the summit block (just right of happy ending). This was quite enjoyable and looked better (more sustained and varied) than the actualy route. We ended on the right crack - or if you're tall, skip the crack and use the face holds between the two cracks. ~80 ft.
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 17, 2012
A pretty cool pitch. The cracks are really abrasive, so tape isn't out of the question. The poison ivy is abundant at the base. Pulling the rope almost guarantees that it will fall right in the ivy. We had to cut our day short, go home and wash our rope after this pitch.
Real fun would be to do "What If You're Not?" then step past the bolt anchor to the ledge and do this as a 2nd pitch.