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This route isn't actually on Twin Owls. It is located on a BIG boulder about 2 minutes up the Gem Lake trail (As you would approach Twin Owls). I believe the Colo. bouldering guide called this boulder the "bolt" boulder- probably in reference to the bolt ladder that starts this climb. Any way, hike up the Gem [Lake] trail until you see a large roof on the NE side of the trail. The route ascends a bolt ladder to the roof, then follows cracks out to the "point" of the roof. You can solo this route easily, by tying off the first couple of bolts. This boulder is a great place to tune up on aid climbing- there are four aid line of varying difficulty. None are long, but most will make you think! I'll report them all.
[Eds. Apparently, this route had no difficulty rating. It did carry the rating of A4 in Rossiter's guide. The comment below suggested it was C1-2.]
There are four or five bolts and one rivet to start this climb. You will also need small cams, and Lowe balls. You don't need anything bigger than an orange TCU. The anchor consists of a shiny new bolt (I replaced the old bad one) and a fixed nut.
|Comments on Hangover Overhang
From: Dysfunctional, CO
Oct 23, 2006
This is an excellent beginner aid climb (my 1st solo). The only semi-sketchy part is moving onto the fixed RURP, and I was more worried about the webbing on the RURP than the placement. I would recommend some small (3mm-5mm) accessory cord to re-sling the RURP. The hanger is missing from the first bolt (pirated?). Does anyone know if Keith Loeber (FA) installed the bolts as part of the original (A4) route? You can anchor off to the tree at the base to solo it. The anchor up top has a nice new bolt (Thanks J. Thompson!), a crappy nut and old slings. I backed up the slings w/ a 1" yellow one. A set of small cams (I used a #0.2 micro-Camalot, #000 C3 & #0 Metolius TCU) up to ~BD #0.5, and micro/regular nuts will see you through. I didn't use any Lowe Balls, but you could use small ones.
Thanks for reorganizing this section Leo (Admin)!
|By J. Thompson|
From: denver, co
Nov 6, 2006
The first "bolt" is actually a rivet....on the first ascent bolts were placed to reach the cracks in the roof. These bolts were all suspect...and were replaced by an Estes local with the current bomber ones. However the OG first bolt was not replaced and instead the first move required a bat hook. A couple of years after this transpired the bathook blew on someone and was no longer usable....at which point I filled the hole with a machine head rivet.
Glad you had fun!