Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Primo Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Battle With a Bush T 
Breakfast Club S 
City Slickers S 
Crying Flyboys S 
Doomsday Birthday T 
Eternal Recurrence S 
Flyin' Child S 
Flying Cowboys S 
Grim Aura S 
Groan Up S 
Halle-Bop S,TR 
Hangman S 
Hooves! T 
Inner Gorilla S 
Killer Pillar S,TR 
Less Happy Fun Time S 
Mildage S 
Mirthmobile S,TR 
Moving Out S 
Primetime To Shine S 
Primeval S 
Problem Child S 
Public Play S 
Public Solitude S 
Public Suck Shine S 
Relative To Standing S 
River Run S 
Shine S 
Squeeze Play S 
Squeezing My Will to Live S 
Suburban Cowgirls S 
Sucking My Will to Live S 
Sucking My Will to Squeeze S 
Super Happy Fun Time S 
Suspended Sentence S 
Tater Tot S 

Hangman 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson and Ken Trout, 1991
Page Views: 1,721
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Mike Davis at the last bolt on hangman. Photo by J...
  • Private land MORE INFO >>>
  • Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Hangman is the furthest route to the right (East) on Primo Wall and starts after the slabs - just off the trail. Hangman and Suspended Sentence share the first four clips up a near vertical face with an adjacent right-facing corner. Stem the corner, move out right onto the face, and solve the first fingery 5.12 crux. This will deposit you into a horrizontal slot that defines the beginning of the roof system. Cop a rest here. The roof can be had on its left for SS or on the right for Hangman. Either way, the roof gets surprisingly steep immediately with 5.12 cruxes to the left or the right. I found the Hangman finish to be a lot less rough on the hands, perhaps a little more obvious. Hangman finishes through the roof on an open seam/flake system of lay-aways that are surprisingly powerful. These holds look huge, but in a couple of places you are working some pretty thin crimps on a steep wall. Two stars for sure for the complex moves at the start, powerful climbing, and excellent stone. Toss in another beer for Alan Nelson and his route finding skills. By the way, did I mention that the roof was steep???


    Protection 

    QD only. This 40 ft route needs about 7 draws and you won't wish for fewer.



    Photos of Hangman Slideshow Add Photo
    Mike Davis starting out the roof on Hangman. Photo by James Ward.
    Mike Davis starting out the roof on Hangman. Photo...
    Comments on Hangman Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Mike Davis
    May 29, 2001

    Really great route!! The 2nd bolt is a little out of line, so a longer draw is helpful on the 2nd and 3rd bolts to reduce some drag. Side Note: A friend of mine tried toproping this after I set it up and had an interesting, albeit hilarious, run in with the pine tree after taking a swing just below the roof.

    By desbien
    From: seattle,wa
    Apr 13, 2008

    Fun and powerful. Neat gaston at the crux.

    By adrenalated
    From: Thornton, CO
    Sep 26, 2009

    Supposedly a hold broke on this in the roof, upping the grade substantially?

    By Jay Samuelson
    From: Denver CO
    Oct 23, 2009
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

    I've heard the same thing. A buddy of mine was out there not long ago with some friends, and they couldn't figure out they're way past it now that the hold has broken. He thought it was at least a number grade harder now.

    By ZachS00
    From: Denver, CO
    Mar 6, 2010

    I was on it today. I don't know what hold broke, but it's not a number grade harder than 12a/b.

    By Rob Eison
    From: Denver, CO
    May 2, 2014

    A pile of quickdraws and a daisy chain have been under Hangman for the past few weeks. I have them now. So if they're yours, pm and me and describe them and I'll get them back to you.