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The Bat Caves
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Hanging Loose 

Hanging Loose 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
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Submitted By: Calvino on Sep 22, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: borrowed photo shows Oyster Dome from the base. Th...

Description 

This beautiful crack splits the right side of the Oyster dome top to bottom. There is some great climbing, it just happens to be guarded by choss and vegetation. Ah, the Northwest


Protection 

Gear to 4 inches, doubles .75-3

p1(5.7): A chossy approach pitch angles up and left on slab to the base of the crack and a bolted anchor. Gear is a bit spicy, as you traverse to the anchor, I was glad I brought my yellow/green offset alien. (not for the faint of heart)

p2(5.10+): Wild stemming and jamming made slightly more difficult by shrubs growing the the crack. Mostly #.75-3

Build an anchor from a stance on a chockstone, as the crack widens to 4". (or run the hero pitch to the top)

p3(5.8): Follow the 3-5" crack to the upper tier and belay off a tree.

There are a number of bolted sport routes on this tier ranging from .8-.12 with easier climbing far left.



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