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Unsorted Routes:

Hanging Judge 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ??
Season: Fall -- area closed from 1 Apr. to 1 Aug.
Page Views: 209
Submitted By: Rich F. on Oct 23, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Hanging Judge follows the left route bolts marked ...
Seasonal falcon nesting closures MORE INFO >>>


This climb ascends one pitch on the Great Big Wall with two distinct cruxes. Climb easy, low angle rock for 25 feet to the first bolt next to a small (3') juniper bush. Pass the juniper on easy rock another 15 feet to a 6 foot tall, vertical corner with a bolt to protect the crux move -- clip the bolt and pull over on good holds with not much for feet. Above the corner, clip another bolt and scamper left up a short slab to a short wall which is the second crux move (about 5.8ish) protected by another well-placed bolt. Climb over the short wall and move up and right to a two-bolt anchor.

Descent: rappel from the anchor.


This is on the right side of the Great Big Wall (see photo).


4 bolts plus a two-bolt anchor. A bit run out in places on easy rock, but the crux moves are all well protected by bolts.

Photos of Hanging Judge Slideshow Add Photo
Hanging Judge follows the blue line.  The red line is Gimp Verde.  The two climbs share the same anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Hanging Judge follows the blue line. The red line...
Four climbs on the Great Big Wall: <br />1.  Purple = Midlife Crisis, 5.10. <br />2.  Red = Two Fine People, 5.7. <br />3.  Blue = Hanging Judge, 5.9. <br />4.  Green = Gimp Verde, 5.8.
BETA PHOTO: Four climbs on the Great Big Wall:
1. Purple = Mi...
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