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Hanging Garden
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Routes Sorted
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Double Ought 
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Gnatty Pale 
Hercules 
Pooh Corner 
Porters Pooh 
Pygmalion 
Season in Hell 
Stars and Bars 
Super Crimp 
Zeus 

Hanging Garden 


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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ryan Williams on Nov 3, 2011

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Seth Tart on Zeus (5.13b).

Photo by David Hill.


Description 

This is one of the coolest places you will ever climb. It is perched high above the trail, at the top of Moore's Wall. The view is amazing and the exposure will get your heart pumping. It took me three trips to the Garden before I got the balls to climb anything!

The Hanging Garden has the highest concentration of hard climbing at Moore's. There are a handful of hard traditional routes up here with a few high end sport climbs mixed in. The rock quality is amazing, and the movement is even better. Every time I climb here, I come away saying "I can't believe that route goes on gear." Believe me when I say that these routes, while safe, would have been bolted if they were in any other part of the country. Leave it to the good old southern boys to keep their ethics in the face of hard, steep, and intimidating climbing.

The angle of the wall keeps it in the shade, and because it sits 150 feet above the base of the main wall, it stays cool most of the time.


Getting There 

Once you've taken the left onto the powerline road, walk for a few minutes until you see a park sign on the right pointing to the Sentinel Buttress trail. Turn right and head up the trail, following signs for the Sentinel Buttress. Once you get close to the wall, the trail splits and either heads left toward the Central Wall or right toward the Sentinel Buttress. Go right, and walk past the Sentinel Buttress and then past the Fire Wall. Continue for 100 yards and look for a 4th class (steep and vegetated) gully that leads up to the big overhang that creates Pooh Corner. The Thomas Kelly book says "if you pass a large block with an orange and white face, you've gone a little too far."

Alternatively, climb Midlife Crisis to the rappel tree on the left side of the Garden. This is a great warm up, and the best way to access the goods that hang over you.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hanging Garden:
Gnatty Pale   5.9 R     Trad, 1 pitch, 125 feet   
Pooh Corner   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Porters Pooh   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
First In Flight   5.12a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Stars and Bars   5.12b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Zeus   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Season in Hell   5.13c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   
Hercules   5.14a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Browse More Classics in Hanging Garden

Featured Route For Hanging Garden
Seth Tart on Zeus (5.13b). <br /> <br />Photo by David Hill.

Zeus 5.13b  NC : Moore's Wall : Hanging Garden
Incredible steep route in an amazing setting. Difficult crux at 3rd bolt, tough redpoint crux at fixed pin (5th piece on route). Tough technical face to finish. Great exposure....[more]   Browse More Classics in NC