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Hanging Chain Wall - Beta?
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By Blake Cash
Jan 13, 2014

I have been really curious about this area for years now and planning on being in the area for the 3 day weekend. Can/will anyone give me useful beta for this area? I see a lot of "new" routes on the database here. Will it be too warm up there this weekend?

Thanks!


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Jan 13, 2014
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

Blake Cash wrote:
I have been really curious about this area for years now and planning on being in the area for the 3 day weekend. Can/will anyone give me useful beta for this area? I see a lot of "new" routes on the database here. Will it be too warm up there this weekend? Thanks!

I assume you're talking about Rumbling Bald? Not that I can help any, just thought I'd clarify which climbing area you were talking about.


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By Blake Cash
Jan 13, 2014

Yeah. I know of no other Hanging Chain wall, hence the reason for no distinction.


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Jan 13, 2014
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

Blake Cash wrote:


what type of beta are you looking for? Bring a rack and some draws. Good routes over there. Not much in the way of easy warmups. Approach is straight forward but the trail gets faint when covered in leaves (i hike up through the boulders to Patio roof and then follow the trail from there). This weekend looks like high 40's so you're not going to be hot, if the wind picks up its somewhat exposed. If you venture a bit further there are routes at left field, or a bit closer the buttress w/ spider and snakes.

it might be busy on the classic spry look, other routes there get little traffic overall


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By Blake Cash
Jan 13, 2014

Awesome. Crowds? Recommended routes? Roughly how long is the hike?


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Jan 13, 2014
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

Blake Cash wrote:
Awesome. Crowds? Recommended routes? Roughly how long is the hike?


I was there a few weeks ago and saw no one. I've been there before with three parties all trying to get on spry look too. Hike takes an aerobic 20 from the parking lot to the base of the wall.


The classic is Spry Look - blocky gear start into consistent v3 bouldering for a number of bolts. Havent done hanging chain or other hard stuff. A few ten's that are good to warm up on


If it is super crowded there are good routes at left field worth checking out.
I've also never seen anyone on spiders and snakes. which is the buttress climbers right before you hump it up the hill

All i got really.


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By Blake Cash
Jan 13, 2014

Awesome. I heard Spry Look is a great route. I heard that the start (gear portion) is on pretty bad rock? Is that true? Trying to get an idea of what to expect...there is little info on this cliff on the internet.


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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Jan 13, 2014
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.

Check out Spry Hooks (now Sly Truths?) for a good warmup. It is a fun new addition. It takes a few pieces of gear, but at your level, probably not necessary. Most of that slab ramp can be a little dirty, chossy, but nothing to freak out about. There are good foot edges. There are also quite a few good slabs that way if your into that kind of thing. I really enjoyed Walk this Way and the new additions of Talk this Way and Lessons Learned. I would still take a good selection of gear, especially in the finger sizes. I also thought Sly Corner was good. Make sure you check out the gear beta Nathan posted about Sly Corner before you attempt it so you don't think I sandbagged you.

The hardest part about getting over there is not getting lost. There is a large tree downed this fall about midway between the end of the west side boulders and the trail up the base. Don't lose the trail after you step over the tree. The next part is figuring out when to go up. I haven't found a great approach, most are steep and poorly footed. You are essentially looking for a steep saddle that begins directly in front of the trail. Take this up to the base of Talk this Way. I highly doubt you will see anyone over there. You also want that place to be in the mid-50's or less as the high. It is slightly more wind exposed than the rest of the Bald. Bring a 70m rope if you have one. It makes TR'ing easier.


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Jan 13, 2014
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

Blake Cash wrote:
Awesome. I heard Spry Look is a great route. I heard that the start (gear portion) is on pretty bad rock? Is that true? Trying to get an idea of what to expect...there is little info on this cliff on the internet.



Its not pretty rock, but far from bad. Gear is bomber and i get at least 4-5 pieces before i hit the actual hard part. i'd bring a small offset or two if you have them. I start it following a natural line of imperfections climbers right of where the first bolt is on the upper portion. Climbing on the lower section is 5.9 up to a rest before the goodness


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By Blake Cash
Jan 13, 2014

Cool. I guess the best bet is to just go and see firsthand! All the routes sounds great and like maybe it'll all be an adventure of sorts. Thanks for the info and if anything else comes to mind...feel free to post it!


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By nbrown
From western NC
Jan 13, 2014
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai

Blake, you're in luck -- The approach here is much better than in years past. There is an obvious path (dare I say trail) nowadays -- much easier than slogging uphill through the leaves like it used to be. I think the recent addition of reasonably high quality warm up routes have changed that. It will take around 15-20 minutes from the boulderfield. The path will bring you out below the route Lessons Learned, a newer slab/face route. Hanging chain is 100' or so to the left. The Spiders and Snakes buttress is down and to the (climbers) right a couple hundred yards and is probably best approached via different route.

FYI, The route named Sly Hooks has morphed into Sly Truths as of late. It's a good "warm-up" but is much easier than its neighbor Spry Look just to the right.


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