I have a friend much stronger than I am. He is a big proponent of max hangs during the Hypertrophy phase. I've always done repeaters but in an effort to diversify, I do the first set of my hangboard routine as a max hang. In other words, if I do three sets on a large edge, the first one is a minute long max hang. Then the second and third set are repeaters (6 hangs, 10 seconds on, 5 seconds off). Does anyone else do this? Does it seem worthwhile? Can anyone speak to the relative strengths and weaknesses of the two exercises? I like it because it feels like I am working two different types of strength, which I think is good but there are training experts much smarter than I am out there.
I always thought of max hangs as being briefer, more like 7-10'seconds followed by a three minute rest. More like an Eva Lopez or Dave MacLeod protocol. Will be interested in hearing from the experts.
Mark, I think you may be right and I'm confusing terms. A max hang is a short hang with the maximum amount of weight added for 1-3 reps. What I mean is I try to add/subtract just the right amount of weight so that I'm coming off after a 60 second hang with no rest.
kenr
·
Sep 26, 2015
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2010
· Points: 16,608
I think you need to get clear on what your goals are.
You called this your "Hypertrophy phase".
A 60-second isometric rep is not remotely about HYPertrophy.
As for hearing from "the experts" ... the real truth is that Nobody really knows scientifically what works best for most classes of climbers. Because climbing has not been a money sport, so well-controlled studies have not been done. (Except one by Eva Lopez concerning an issue which is different from yours).
So instead what "expert" climbing coaches do is try to make inferences from other sports that are much better studied scientifically. And learn as best they can from the non-statistically-significant set of serious climbers they know. . (Or just talk very confidently about how sure they are that their recommended method is right).
In every other sport, Hypertrophy of relevant muscles is achieved best by concentric + eccentric contraction exercises (not isometric). With the total time of contraction per set usually significantly less than 60 seconds.
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