Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Hangboard use survey
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
By Don McGrath
From fort collins, CO
Sep 29, 2012

I'm gathering info on hangboard use by climbers.
I'd love it if you would help me by completing this short survey.
It should take you less than one minute to complete.

I'll share results when done.

www.surveymonkey.com/s/RVXMNSZ

Thanks in advance,
Don


FLAG
By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Sep 29, 2012

My $0.02:

Your survey has ridiculous questions that demonstrate a lack of understanding of use of the hangboard as a training tool, lack of understanding of the term "contact strength", and a failure to address or acknowledge periodization schedules, workout structures, and time under tension principles in designing your survey questions.

Your "results" will provide no meaningful insight into anything related to training on a hangboard. We already know most people buy one and rarely use it after the first month or two.

Therefore, I decline to participate.


FLAG
By Adam Leedy
From Austin, TX
Sep 29, 2012

Will S wrote:
My $0.02: Your survey has ridiculous questions that demonstrate a lack of understanding of use of the hangboard as a training tool, lack of understanding of the term "contact strength", and a failure to address or acknowledge periodization schedules, workout structures, and time under tension principles in designing your survey questions. Your "results" will provide no meaningful insight into anything related to training on a hangboard. We already know most people buy one and rarely use it after the first month or two. Therefore, I decline to participate.


agreed.

I hate to be a hater and bag on Don, but every time I click on a thread and realize it is from him, I cringe as if I've been Rick Rolled, in a totally non-humorous way.

I try really hard to appreciate it when someone compiles information about effective training techniques because climbing training is so confusing when you first start focusing on it (well, until you discover the Rock Prodigy). I've been doing focused training for a year and I'm STILL very overwhelmed at times. Because of that, I've watched several of Don's videos and can honestly say I have never gleaned anything of value from them. Aside from not having any worth while information, they are painful to watch/listen to due to horrible production quality that appears to be filmed using the webcam on a laptop circa 1999. Now that you have to enter your name and email address in order to access anything, I doubt anyone will pay attention at all.

Please Don, give us something worth watching/reading/participating in. If you want to talk about hangboads, how about a video demonstration of good hangboard workout. You could show a cheap easy way to setup a system to add/subtract weights, sample training logs, and maybe even review some hangboards. Something like that would have been really valuable to me 8 months ago and I'm sure many other noobs to training would appreciate it. If you want a hangboard survey, how about something as simple as which hangboards you use and how you actually use it or something like that.


FLAG
By Don McGrath
From fort collins, CO
Sep 29, 2012

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm trying to learn some things and you appear to be way ahead of me.

Sorry if you feel that I'm wasting your time. I don't mean to.


FLAG
By Rajiv Ayyangar
From Portland, ME
Oct 2, 2012
Cut! Sadly my flash attempt met with dismal pump-failure two bolts later.

Hey Don - This is the most often-cited article on hangboarding amongst my friends:

The Making of a Rockprodigy

It outlines the Anderson brothers' training methods, that they have since used (with modifications) to push well into the 5.14 range.

While not everyone follows this routine, it does have some nomenclature and ways-of-thinking about hangboarding that people seem to agree upon.

For example, people generally agree that contact strength and power are best served by campus boarding or bouldering, while hangboarding is more static and generally improves max force, max voluntary contraction (MVC) or more generally induces hypertrophy (HYP).

"Endurance" is a tricky thing to define in climbing, as is "power endurance."

Some of the ranges on your questions might be off. For example, I work out once a week on the hangboard, which is the greatest frequency response, but I know other people who (when they are in a hangboarding phase) do 2-3 sessions per week. Similarly, I work out for about an hour, but some people do longer - 1.5 to 2 hr sessions, which I think would be worth capturing.

Other interesting questions would be what their climbing grade is, preferred style of climbing, and whether they progress by adding weight or by hanging longer.


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.