Mountain Project Logo

Hangboard Training for the temporarily crippled

Original Post
Brian Hestetune · · Logan, UT · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 681

Hey folks. There probably has been much discussion on this, but I'm fairly new to the idea of using a hangboard. For some reason I decided it would be a good idea to tear my ACL and meniscus. So, with the ACL construction and meniscus repair surgery, I'm out of climbing for at least 3 more months. In the last 3 weeks since the surgery, I've started picking up a routine for hangboarding and have been trying several different things.

So in my downtime, since I'm pretty much constrained sitting or hobbling around, I'd like to at least make sure I'm doing things correctly. Anyone have any insight on folks in a similar situation? The situation being that I want to completely replace my climbing with hangboard training. I'd like to at least maintain my endurance and strength.

I have been doing hangs/drops/pullups/etc for strength days and doing longer endurance 'hangs' on one foot behind the board (can only weight one) by just alternating holds for an entire set or doing long 'hangs' on a single hold type for endurance days. Alternating holds felt more similar to a climbing session, so I can imagine doing that more often, but I do not want to run into any over training issues.

I'm not exactly sure how to maintain longer endurance? I can't do much for aerobic exercise for another month or so. I can do anything that requires only one leg.

Any insight is helpful.

Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623

I had an LCL injury several years ago that was fairly debilitating. You don't want to do more than one fingery workout per week. Hands require a lot longer to recoup from an intense workout. I added in some rock rings and was doing pull up intervals for endurance. Rice bucket is also great for wrist and antagonist. You can do core workouts daily. Don't let the down time get to you. Stay humble and do what you can. I spent a lot of time helping my wife achieve her goals by being her belay slave and focusing on her. It was a good distraction while still being outside. Good luck!

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635

I was on crutches for five months after fracturing/dislocating my foot, and was able to do two hangboard cycles during that time. You can still do endurance pretty well on hangboards jut by increasing the length and volume of your reps. I was doing 7 second hangs, one minute sets, and from 15-18 sets twice a week. Would also do a occasional weighted pullups or lockoffs, and a lot of core– leglifts, windmills, front levers.

A fun core exercise you can do when you're injured is just lean up with your back against any wall, bracing yourself on your crutches, and bust out a set of 10-20 leg lifts. Try to do 150 through the day, and you'll be in pretty good shape by the time you get back on the rock.

Rui Ferreira · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 903

I recommend that you read through Steve Becthel's recent article on hangboard training and adapt it to your needs

climbstrong.com/articles/20…

Good luck with the knee recovery

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 270
youtube.com/watch?v=REtTkCl…

Courtney Sanders training with a broken leg
Leify Guy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 367
Rui Ferreira wrote:I recommend that you read through Steve Becthel's recent article on hangboard training and adapt it to your needs climbstrong.com/articles/20… Good luck with the knee recovery
Good article, thanks for the link
Brian Hestetune · · Logan, UT · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 681

Great info. Thanks!

In that article, I'm not sure if I grasp the frequency aspect much from the studies. It sounds like at the lower intensity you want to be doing this workout few or more than a few days a week (Like the one suggested), as all the studies are from daily stresses on the fingers?

Brings me to my next question? Are there any gains from getting pumped out on a hangboard, using feet and such as to not put much stress on your fingers? I imagine that strength increases lead directly to endurance increases by virtue of your endurance level strength being increased. The 10 minute 'hang' routine of switching holds and resting at low intensity felt pretty similar to doing laps or climbing long routes. But would that have any benefit over the shorter hangs as suggested in the article?

Would the endurance aspect be better accommodated by a pull-up routine?

I think I'm over thinking this.

Rui Ferreira · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 903
Brian Hestetune wrote: I think I'm over thinking this.
My take is that most people see gains in finger strength no matter the routine that is employed for hangboard training.

Regarding your question if getting pumped is beneficial, the answer depends on what you want to train, if it is some aspect of endurance then the answer is yes/maybe, if you are after pure strength then the answer is no; rest as necessary between hang reps to gain pure strength. Either way after a proper hangboard session your fingers should be in a condition that you cannot climb afterwards and will require significant rest before the next training or climbing session.

There may also be benefits to varying the hangboard training type throughout the year (the so called Randomness Effect), for example The Rock Prodigy approach may favor Strength Endurance, whereas Lopez approach appears to favor Maximum Strength, so depending where you are in your overall periodization plan you can use one or the other.

Here is another summary article on hangboarding and isometric training

stevemaischtraining.com/iso…
frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30
Rui Ferreira wrote: My take is that most people see gains in finger strength no matter the routine that is employed for hangboard training...
I think generally speaking, this is true. However most in the non-injury-limited world want to maximize gains for their time input, so being careful as to how one hangboards/focuses time and injury is important (there is a post in the blog you linked to about training capital which I think is really informative in this respect). Just picking (at random) a hangboard routine and thrashing away will produce some gains, but not necessarily maximum gains.
reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Rui Ferreira wrote: Either way after a proper hangboard session your fingers should be an condition that you cannot climb afterwards and will require significant rest before the next training or climbing session.
I think that really depends on how much volume your hangboard workout is. For non-repeater/endurance type workout, you should stop long before that. I've definitely done many max-hang type workouts that I see a drop in performance & stopped, but can still run laps on routes.
Limpingcrab DJ · · Middle of CA · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,055

I didn't read what everyone else wrote but Digit Trainer is an awesome app for hangboard training and I love it.

For the rest of your training do a lot of core. Climbing isn't an endurance sport anyway, despite what some people think.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Training Forum
Post a Reply to "Hangboard Training for the temporarily crippled"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.